Kokaiya, Tokiwadai 航海屋、常盤台

Kokaiya ramen are famed for their chashu ramen in particular, and also their “double” soup, which successfully blends chicken and fish stock to create a robust broth in which the equally tasty ramen swim

At some point, several years ago judging by the fading photos, the jolly fat guy and debuya star off the TV visited, along with a whole gaggle of “talent” who followed after him.

There are five Kokaiya stores: Shinjuku, Ikebukuro, Asagaya, Numabukuro and Tokiwadai. I did the later, which just happens to be located next door to the ramen shop Men Don Fuku-Iken.

The tonsoba were quite excellent. The tasty soup aside, the ample slices of pork and firm, juicy noodles proved to be deeply satisfying.

03-3959-9050 

Kokaiya

Ginsuiso, Izu-inatori 銀水荘、東伊豆町

A stay at a ryokan is a fine thing. Especially if it provides a cozy room, onsen a sea view and an interesting menu.

Ginsuiso, an apparently well-reputed inn in Hagashiizu-cho (nearest station: Izu-Inatori), ticked all these boxes, and managed to heat the rooms so perfectly that one could ponce around in a yukata even in early January without the slightest shiver.

Both the evening meal and breakfast were substantial and nicely presented. The service provided was excellent, truly attentive and willing to explain and describe tirelessly. If there were any complaint with the food, it would be that they over played the seafood card with the breakfast. Sure, this inn is right on the sea, but every dish was some kind of fish, shellfish, unholy jelly-like substance or seaweed of some kind.

As expected, drinks were hugely over priced. Thankfully I managed to “smuggle” a few bottles in, so all was not lost.

Dinner consisted of a variety of dishes, ranging from shellfish to cream soup. 

Awabi odori-yaki – live abalone grilled on tabletop brazier

Shiro-ebi konoko gake – white shrimp served on sea cucumber ovary sauce – with shin-takenoko, ika kinomiae – new bamboo and squid topped with tree buds

Ikura, kinome, uni, yuba bekko an – roe, tree buds and sea urchin resting on tofu skin simmered in broth

Maguro, shiromi, uni sashimi – tuna, white fish and sea urchin sashimi

Kinmedai sugata zukuri to awabi – sashimi of splendid alfonsino and abalone

Kinmedai nitsuke – splendid alfonsino simmered in sweet soy sauce, complimented with daikon radish and aubergine 

Kinmedai sanma sushi, hatsuki kinkan mitsuni, hizu kazunoko matsumaetsuki, kukonomi, aiyu nibitashi shirozu – splendid alfonsino and mackerel sushi, honey-poached kumquat, salmon cartilage with herring roe, Chinese desert-thorn seeds and sweetfish simmered in white vinegar

Chilled Fubuki – the only sake of the evening

Steak with salad

Cream soup

Kani zosui – crab and rice porridge

Breakfast

Pickles

Maguro sashimi, ebi, wasabi zuke – tuna sashimi, shrimp and fermented wasabi

Salad

05-5795-0161

Ginsuiso

Magic India, Shimoda マジックインディア、下田

Magic India was a truly awesome dining experience. Unforgettable even.

At least in that it was without a doubt the worst curry I’ve ever had the misfortune to eat. Strangely, it was so bad that it became somehow amusing.

The drab interior and dirty apron should have been warning enough. The curry sets came with either rice or naan. The rice was the typical Japanese out-of-the-rice-cooker variety, unloving spread upon a plate. The naan had a kind of soapy flavour. I didn’t want to ask why. 

My mushroom and saag curry contained very few mushrooms or spinach, and my dining partners lamb curry very little lamb. Both curries were thin, watery and utterly tasteless. I kept thinking of Heinz oxtail soup for some reason…

05-5827-0376

Magic India

Maruto Suisan, Izu-inatori まると水産、伊豆稲取

There being little else available in the vicinity of Izu-inatori station, my dining partner and I settled on Maruto Suisan for lunch.

Being a seaside resort town, the menu predominantly featured seafood. All the set lunches were reasonably priced and to be honest too large.

As such, I had the tenzaru soba, while my dining partner enjoyed the zarusoba, complete with seasonal mikan. Not bad, but after fresh, handmade soba over the New Year holiday these noodles failed to excite. 

Food Critics Need to Look Beyond Central Tokyo

My recent piece for CNNGo on the joys of outer-Yamanote line dining can be found here. 

Thanks to Marcus Yip of 148 Hiroo and Frommer's Tokyo author, Beth Reiber, for their words of wisdom. 

T.G.I. Friday’s, Harajuku 原宿

As the redevelopment of the backstreets nestled between Meiji Dori and Kiddy Land proceeds, most of the familiar watering holes have disappeared. Plenty of interesting looking bars, cafés and patisseries are replacing them, but are so popular that at lunchtime there’s no choice but to get in line and wait for a table. Hardly advisable at this time of year.

The only place that didn’t have a queue outside it was T.G.I. Friday’s, and so (being in need of a drink) that’s where we ended up.

Along with the appallingly slow and ill-timed service (my dining partner and I had thought eating lunch together, at the same time, might have been nice), and the weak G&Ts, the food wasn’t up to much either.

The Philly Cheese Steak Wrapper turned out to be bland, and the fries quite awful. At least the Sizzling Shrimp was plentiful, if nothing else.

03-5774-6855

T.G.I. Friday’s

Osteria Beverino, Ebisu ベヴェリーノ、恵比寿

Open only a few weeks, Osteria Beverino is the latest eatery to try its luck on the perilous stretch of Meiji Dori between Ebisu and Higashi.

The space is pleasant enough, although at this time of year the vaulted ceiling doesn’t make for a cozy atmosphere. 

Lunch sets at ¥1,000 a pop were the order of the day. 

A pile of truly dull salad, and a coffee included, the mains were sizable, too. The Pasta del Giorno, essentially mushroom and tuna spaghetti, was immediately offered in its super-sized format.  

My dining partner’s lasagna received no complaints. If anything were lacking, it was soup.

As far as weekday lunches go, this Italian restaurant is worth a visit while it’s still in business. 

03-6427-3527

Osteria Beverino