Uroko, Nakano ウロコ、中野

Nakano's Uroko, an izakaya specializing in fish and other sea produce, is conveniently situated but two minutes walk from the north exit of the station and offers a lively, cheap and cheerful evening's dining. 

A relatively recent, having opended in summer 2007,  edition to the array of izakaya and nomiya in the vicinity of Nakano's Broadway, Uroko is easily noticed by its rustic / fishing-port izakaya styling and sheet-plastic doorway! 

Nakano has long remained a favourite nighttime haunt of mine, especially the web of side-streets and back-roads on the north side of the station. Something of a previous era remains. Recalling the Tokyo of the 1960s, perhaps, or the 1970s. This neighbourhood provides no-nonsense food and drink for those who expect flavoursome dishes at reasonable prices. 

Uroko sports two floors, although it certainly is not spacious. Brightly lit, warm and lively it welcomes passers-by by dint of its styling and seeming size which serve to differentiate it from the surrounding establishments. 

The service is prompt, lively and informal. The waiting staff being young, the general atmosphere of the izakaya is relaxed and friendly. Customers range from families with young children to those possessing bus-passes. Real warmth is added by the charcoal braziers at each table and seating place. Although perhaps overbearing in warmer months, during the autumn / winter the heat generated by these coal grills is a welcome respite from the cold. 

A choice of tables with benches or counter seats (beer crates with wooden tops) are available. I would recommend the counter as, surrounding the open kitchen, it affords a view of the various fish being prepared and a chance to converse with the affable red-haired master of the shop. 

The food on offer is simple, although the menu is full of choice. Fish and other sea foods are the specialty of the place, and as such other mundane izakaya fare, for example the salad or kuroke, are noteworthy only for their lack of exceptionality. The seafood is, on the other hand, a different matter. Apparently having connections with the fishing port of Kagaji, in Oita-ken (Oita prefecture), this izakaya has ready access to an ample supply of quality fresh fish. The majority of dishes are served in their natural unadulterated state lacking even salt or pepper. Occasional embellishments such as miso paste, Soya sauce, or wasabi were recommended. 

All dishes are cooked by oneself upon old, red-painted braziers stained with grease and smoke. A good part of the entertainment of eating at Uroko is the act of cooking each dish, much in the same way as Yakiniku (grilled meat). Indeed, this is yakiniku only with fish. Prices are most reasonable, although the draught Yebisu seems slightly small and expensive at 480 yen. Moroever, those who have more than a passing interest in nihonshu or shochu will be disappointed. Little more than a nameless hot or cold option is offered. 

A shop specialty worth trying is the jaw of tuna (maguro no kama) which at 30cm in length and just 500 yen is a bargain.  Squid and Octopus dishes are also excellent, especially when accompanied by grilled garlic. 

 Uroko is certainly value for money, and recommended for a cheap and cheerful evening's repast. Two dining for 3-4 hours, eating and drinking plentifully, costs a little short of 4,000 yen per head. Nakano does have better to offer in terms of quality and surroundings, at a higher price, in the form of the robatayaki at Okajouki (with connections to Tsukiji fish market) just around the corner.

On the downside, the seating is far from comfortable, and space is lacking at the counter. If seafood is not your thing, best to give it a miss. Otherwise, good value no-frills fare in one of Tokyo's best playgrounds. 

Tel: 03-5948-5652.