Mifune, Roppongi 三船、六本木

Mifune is a pleasantly understated izakaya, opposite Roppongi Hills and just a couple of minutes walk from the Hibiya line metro exit, themed on the late, great Japanese actor Mifune Toshiro (1920-1997). Mifune, the man, is legendary. Being most famous for his roles in the films of the equally legendary director Kurosawa Akira (1910-1998), such as Seven Samurai and Rashomon. Western audiences may also remember him in the TV adaptation of James Clavell’s (1924-1994) classic novel Shōgun, in the role of the daimyo lord and future Shōgun “Toranaga” (inspired by the historical figure Tokugawa Ieyasu). The izakaya, and proposed expansion of establishments in the chain, is the result of collaboration between Watanabe Hiyoshi’s Tokyo Restaurants Factory and Mifune Productions.

Although such a themed izakaya runs the risk of becoming a cheap attempt to cash in on the fame of Mifune Toshiro resulting in a Disney-like “samurai Japan” atmosphere, being a fan of Mifune’s films I had to try the place for myself. According to Mifune’s website, the izakaya’s interior is designed to recall the atmosphere and simple elegance of Mifune’s famous samurai movies, while the menu consists of traditional Japanese dishes inspired by the films as well as Mifune’s own favourites. The website itself is informative, although the translations for the English Language pages leave much to be desired. Nevertheless, that an attempt has been made to make the site, and the izakaya itself, accessible to foreigners is laudable.

Obviously fairly recently constructed, the style is all “old Japan” bringing to mind a samurai hall or traditional inn, dark stained wood with heavy beams frame the entrance. An illuminated shop sign bearing the name “Mifune” provides a contemporary touch, and an open menu complete with photos of the famous actor in his “Yojimbo” role rests upon a stand at the entrance. Before the sliding front door hangs a noren bearing the Mifune family symbol.

Greeted with the usual chorus of “irasshai,” we were led up onto the raised wooden floor of dark, unpolished wood past a well proportioned L-shaped counter of light-coloured wood piled with baskets of eda-mame (green beans) and lemons framing the open kitchen, and into a spacious main dining area. The interior is dark. Dim lighting and walls and ceiling of the same dark stained wood as the floors lend an almost medieval feel to the place. To the rear of this dining area hangs another noren bearing the Mifune family symbol, and to the left, near the washrooms, large sliding doors painted with a floral design open onto a koshitsu. The high ceiling added to the sense of space, as did the fact that rather than being crowded with tables, only four large solid tables dominate the main dining space. On the far left of the room, separated from the main dining area by wooden screens, were several more tables, with others lining the right side of the izakaya on the far side of the kitchen counter. Somewhat surprisingly there was not a film poster or photo of Mifune Toshiro in sight!

Being seated, comfortably plush cushions and a leg well beneath the table raised slightly above floor level, a waitress dressed in dark blue monpe trousers and brown jimbei smock took our drink orders in friendly yet courteous manner, before serving an o-toshi of tuna and horenso (spinach) in a creamy looking light-tasting stock. Simple and tasty, with plenty of horenso, my only complaint was that the tuna looked like it was straight out of the tin. While browsing the menu, well presented with black kanji, red borders, and the Mifune symbol in brown upon a pale washi-style (traditional Japanese paper) paper, the waitress noticed my soon empty beer glass and promptly asked if I would like another. Indeed, the staff were attentive and polite throughout the course of the evening without becoming overbearing.

The menu, while offering a broad range of classic izakaya

food, seemed to specialize in sashimi and kushiyaki in particular.  Always a fantastic compliment to beer or sake I ordered my usual tsukemono, this time in the form of pickled nasu (aubergine) with mind-numbingly hot yellow karashi (mustard). This was followed by a large skewer of tonkatsu (fried pork in breadcrumbs) and onion served upon a bed of sliced cabbage and yet more mustard. I was particularly impressed with the simplicity of this dish. The pork, wonderfully chunky pieces, was succulent and not at all oily.

The relaxed, cosy atmosphere also impressed me; not too boisterous the sound of conversation and cooking occasionally punctuated by orders being taken and patrons being welcomed. By 8pm the place was packed with couples and groups of young men and, surprisingly, not a gaijin in sight.

Scanning the menu I wondered what the “Hidden Fortress” nabe (named after one of the Kurosawa films in which Mifune starred) would be like, and made a mental note to order the “Yojimbo” onigiri later in the meal. For salad, we ordered the sengiri yasai to niku-miso temaki sarada. This consisted of slices of fresh, crisp daikon (radish), cucumber, carrot and fried noodles served in a large flat bamboo basket with leaves in which to wrap the vegetables. Niku-miso (meat flavoured miso paste) added a richer flavour to the resulting vegetable wraps. An attractively colourful dish, it was also of a good size.

Hankering after the taste of sake I selected the Kikkyo, produce of Aichi prefecture. The waitress had been unable to read the kanji when I asked the name of this particular sake, but with a giggle she rushed off to ask a more knowledgeable member of staff. I had to wait a little too long for it to arrive but when it did it proved to be neither too sweet nor too dry, with a nice woody taste with hints of honey. Next came the yasai to chiken no mushi seiro, the first disappointment of the evening. One of the pricier items on the menu it was nothing more than a mundane selection of chicken and vegetables, potato, carrot, broccoli and cauliflower, steamed in a bamboo steamer (seiro) and accompanied by a dipping sauce of miso and mayonnaise. Uninspiring, and rather small, it is best avoided.

At this point I decided to check out the bathroom. There, finally, the Mifune theme was in full force. The walls covered in framed photos of the great man in his most famous roles. Certainly more entertaining than staring at blank walls while taking a piss at any rate.

Bladder emptied, I then tried another sake, this one hailing from Shiga prefecture, the Shichi Hon Yari (“Seven Halberds”) which proved to be fairly dry to the taste, hitting the back of tongue in a pleasing manner. Still hungry we decided that the Bakudan Kurokke (“bomb croquette”) sounded interesting. Asking what it was, we were informed that it was a large croquette filled with egg served on sliced cabbage with Bulldog sauce. As it turned out, this was not a bad dish but not quite as good as it sounded and nowhere near as good as it looked. The egg was soft, but the taste of the yolk failed to infuse the croquette itself.

Next came the Shime no Yojimbo Setto, a set comprising of a large onigiri, pickled daikon, and a large bowl of steaming, meaty-tasting miso soup filled with mushrooms, carrot, konnyaku (jelly-like food made from the starch of devil’s tongue), gobo (burdock) and bacon. The soup was wonderful, and the rice ball, although simple, was especially excellent when some of the course salt provided with it was sprinkled on top. For desert, vanilla ice cream served on a bed of anko (sweet red beans) covered with molasses. A pleasing end to an enjoyable evening.

Mifune is well worth a visit. A nice change from some of the more raucous attractions on offer in Roppongi, the overall style and atmosphere is suitably Japanese and evokes something of the flavour of Kurosawa’s films and the roles that Mifune played in them. Indeed, the décor, atmosphere and service at this izakaya were all very good. In terms of the food itself, I couldn’t help feeling that it was a bit pedestrian. Not bad, but certainly nothing exceptional. Considering that our meal came to around ¥6,000 per person, better can be had for the same price elsewhere. Still, I enjoyed my surroundings and would certainly make another visit if I happen to be in the area.

Tel: 03-6804-5548 

Web: http://www.mifune-project.com/