Hantei, Nezu はん停、根津

A first-time, all be it brief, visit to Nezu's Hantei was enjoyed last week, following the celebrations at Isukura (see previous entry). Directly opposite the entrance to Nezu's metro station Hantei is a Kushi-ya, specializing in meat, chicken, fish and vegetable skewers, dating back to the Taisho period (1912-1926). The shop’s facade now takes on a post-modern grill-like form of glass and steel, which shields the charming original three-story wooden structure. Nevertheless, the resulting design is eye-catching, although out of place on the otherwise plain Shinobazu Dori. The entrance to the restaurant is actually located on the side of the building to the rear. The original building is here revealed and open to the elements, all dark wood, steel-grey tiles and bamboo covers.

Busy even on the Sunday evening upon which I visited, the three floors of Hantei are mostly of bamboo matting and low tables with the first floor furnished with western style tables and chairs upon polished wooden floors. Service was polite, if somewhat lacking in warmth. A delicious otsumami of baby shrimps and Yanaka ginger topped with lemon was noteworthy, as was the selection of raw vegetables accompanied by a perfectly gorgeous red miso paste, the contents of which, being a shop secret, was only explained as containing red miso and meat. 

Other kushiage dishes were pleasant yet some how no more than expected. A little formulaic perhaps, although to be fair I ordered only a small selection, having already eaten at Isukura. The presentation of each dish was not bad at all, but far from exciting. Overall each offering was quite delicious. However Hentei failed to grab my attention fully, why I am not sure, and as such further investigation is required before any real verdict is made. 

Tel: 03-3828-1440.