Tabaruzaka, Nakano 田原坂、中野

Nakano offers up another fine izakaya, specializing in Kumamoto style dishes, a little short of ten minutes stroll from the station, on Waseda Dōri. Named after the hill in Kumamoto prefecture upon which ‘The Last Samurai’, Saigo Takamori, fought one of the bloodiest campaigns of his Satsuma Rebellion, Tabaruzaka provides a good selection of shōchū, a few decent sakes, such as the Bishōnen, and tasty dishes that differ from the usual Tokyo fare.

The building itself is instantly recognizable for its old-fashioned white plaster namako kabe, diamond patterned, walls. Stepping through the dark entrance reveals a large open plan room; wood panels covered in yellowing hand written menu entries, fading photos, reproductions of Taishō period beer advertisements, and rows of small tables and chairs around a counter before the kitchen area. Everything about the interior décor and atmosphere of the place suggests times gone by, the recent past, better times. Charming in its simplicity, the reality is that Tabaruzaka is a bit shabby. Faded, like the photographs adorning the walls. Not that this in any way does the izakaya a disservice. Indeed the ambience created, in addition to the somewhat brusque welcome and treatment at the hand of the mistress of the house, all adds to the flavour. 

Although the place was heaving upon our arrival, service was prompt. The mistress was a little too impatient when taking our orders and the food arrived almost a little too quickly for my liking. Initial bottles of cold Yebisu beer were accompanied by an otsumami, appetizer, of komatsuna ohitashi, a green spinach like vegetable cooked in fish stock laced with soy sauce and mirin. Of the many dishes on offer, my dining partners and I readily agreed that the Kumamoto basashi, slices of raw horsemeat with grated garlic, ginger and soy sauce, was a must. Undoubtedly tasty and fresh it failed, however, to match the genuine article. Each slice was almost painfully thin, and small in all dimensions, compared with the thick juicy slices I have enjoyed in Kumamoto. Still, it is often said to be near impossible to find decent basashi in Tokyo, and that served at Tabaruzaka goes some way to dispelling the myth.

A delightfully hot karashi renkon, crunchy sliced renkon stuffed with a miso and mustard paste, came with a heat warning, while the kaisen sarada, seafood salad – a quotidian affair consisting of sashimi, lettuce and a forgettable dressing – came with a ‘but it’s raw fish’ warning aimed at the gaijin, myself, in the party. A literally steaming buri-daikon, stewed daikon and yellowtail, was delicious with the fish itself being particularly tender. In many ways the atmosphere, or rather perhaps the smell, of the place brings to mind Okajōki, another Nakano favourite. As the evening progressed the volume of customers thinned out and service provided by younger members of staff was friendlier. Throughout the meal the heavy-browed jowly face of Saigo-san glared down at us. Dining under his portrait was certainly a first.

An interesting izakaya, Tabaruzaka’s best feature is the regional, Kumamoto style, flavour and dishes. Not as wonderful as I had hoped, but enjoyable all the same. 

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