Bunbuku, Shimo-Kitazawa 分福、下北沢

There is much to like in Bunbuku, a small yakitori-ya, part of the Jackpot Planning group, less than a minutes stroll from the south exit of Shimo-Kitazawa station. Suitably unassuming while reassuringly ‘Japanese’ the shop front displays paper lanterns, hand-painted signs and menus, and that manufactured run-down appearance that promises good food and cold beer at reasonable prices.

That is not to say that Bunbuku is without faults. The selection of sake on offer is pitifully limited, although shōchu is better represented, and while the atmosphere of the ground floor with its narrow counter and kitchen is enjoyable the first floor (the second to Japanese minds, of course) feels a little sparse. An afterthought. This need not be the case as the building, providing a vaulted ceiling and bare wooden beams, potentially has scope for a more interesting interior. Despite these points, two pleasant evenings have been enjoyed at Bunbuku, with my dining partners and I each time being impressed with quality, and value, of the food served.

I had noticed the shop numerous times while passing by on my way to the station, each time being impressed by the lively throng of customers and sounds of kitchen and staff. Eventually taking the time to try the place, it lived up to expectations, thanks not only to the great food but also to the friendly service provided by staff that obviously take pride in their work and the service they provide. Always friendly and prompt, without rushing diners, the staff are attentive. I wish they were more familiar with the details of their menu, but this is a small point.

The menu is simple, being illustrated by occasional photographs. Ordering beer, the wonderfully crunchy, colourful o-shinko moriawase – assorted pickles of daikon, aubergine, cabbage and ginger – and the deliciously hot and sour kimuchi, we took our time in choosing from the selection of yakitori – grilled chicken morsels on small wooden skewers – and other interesting offerings such as the skewer of tuna and leek covered in miso, which had a wonderful, almost citrus, sweet taste.  Always keen to make at least a nod in the direction of health eating we selected the cabbage salad; a bowl of raw cabbage generously doused with a ponzu sauce.  Not overly large we gratefully accepted a refill (not an option generally offered). In order to try a bit of everything this was accompanied by a moriawase consisting of ten different skewers and the delightfully tender, chunky chicken liver, which was cooked to perfection, being neither too bloody nor too dry. Highlights were the momo – leg meat – and sasami – white meat (breast?) – smothered in rather too much wasabi. All were thoroughly delicious, prompting us to make a second order of our favourite individual skewers. This led to the revelation that the size of the skewers in the moriawase are considerably smaller than those ordered individually. Be advised.  

Tiring of beer, I switched to sake, the Bunbuku junmai being recommended. The ni-go, two portion, tokkuri – sake jug – was nothing short of enormous, and the Bunbuku junmai itself was not bad at all, but certainly nothing spectacular. This enjoyable meal was brought to its conclusion with a final order of nankotsu and tsukune – cartilage and chicken mince – in a plum sauce.

Bunbuku is almost everything a good yakitori-ya should be. Cheap, three dining cost a little under 8,000 yen, simple and delicious. Indeed, the freshness, portions, and taste were all excellent. None were over cooked and, as mentioned above, the liver was not undercooked either. Friendly service and a lively atmosphere created by patrons, young and old, enjoying their meals add up to an experience which is not only enjoyable but also excellent value for money. Recommended.

Update 28/9/09: Bunbuku has undergone some of the transformation. Interior somewhat improved, new menus printed on cheap paper & plastic fans and yakitori no longer on offer. A selection of tasty, well proportioned, kushiyaki is now the mainstay of this izakaya. 

Tel: 03-3410-5260