Kikka, Shibuya 橘花、渋谷

Finding Genkaya already full, my dining partner and I beat a hasty retreat down the building’s stairwell, intent on wandering the streets of Shibuya in search of hospitality, only to be lured by the sight of Kikka’s entrance on the second-floor, directly beneath Genkaya. The sliding wooden door and orange glow emanating from within suggested izakaya delights.

Stepping in we found a small, low-lit izakaya with a broad counter along one side before an open kitchen. No chairs, just cushions upon the tatami mats. The atmosphere cosy and inviting, the soft sound of conversation punctuated by occasional laughter, we were guided to a rather too narrow ‘private’ table between two barred bamboo lattices, intended to create “time and space”, separating us from those dining on either side. Hot towels were swiftly offered along with an explanation of the evening’s recommendations. Initial drink orders were politely taken, and the first of several delicious, tall glasses of chilled Kohaku (amber) Yebisu delivered together with an appetizer of nasu, aubergine, in a thick chicken soup, small particles of chicken adding texture.

Intent upon our conversation we took our time in ordering, being allowed to take our time enjoying our drinks while studying the menu. A good selection of usual izakaya fare was on offer as well as a limited choice of sake, with a helpful map of Japan showing where each originates. Not particularly busy, the patrons of Kikka appeared to be mostly couples in their mid-thirties to forties. Certainly a world apart from the boisterous, youthful yakiniku lovers upstairs in Genkaya.

Our meal began with a tofu and daikon salad, large crisp shavings of daikon sprinkled with bonito flakes, and a delicious, well-sized sashimi moriawase consisting of tuna, jack, sea bream, yellowtail, and young yellowtail. Moving on to sake I selected – sticking to my usual rule of ‘karakuchi’, dry, and ‘nomiyasui’, drinkable – the ever-pleasing Suigei followed by the equally pleasant Hōken.

Prices were just a little above reasonable. In order to offset the effects of the drink, we ordered a tasty buta-kakuni, served with small potatoes and mange tout, that although ample enough overall was let down by the small size of the individual pieces of pork. Still hungry – talking shop is hard work – we rounded off the meal with chicken and satoimo, taro, karaage.

Pretty good overall, Kikka offers decent enough food, although nothing truly excites, and good service in pleasant surroundings – “modern Kyoto atmosphere” – at a reasonable price. Two dining, including a few drinks, came to around 6,000 yen per head. The sake selection is too limited in my opinion, however. Worth a visit if you happen to be nearby.

Tel: 03-5728-4123