Kamakura, Shibuya かまくら、渋谷

Located on the fourth floor of the same building as Genkaya and Kikka, a few minutes walk from the Parco department store in Shibuya, Kamakura is an izakaya most notable for it novel interior. As a regular at Genkaya I had many times noticed the advertisement for Kamakura with photos of the interior showing strange, almost Star Wars-esque white huts. Strange as it may sound, upon entering through a low oval, Hobbit hole-like door one enters into a nicely decorated genkan, the dark slate floor lined with white pebbles at its edge around the walls and the huts themselves, separated from the main dining area by solid wooden poles. Given a courteous welcome, my dining partner and I were ushered in and given the choice of one of the many koshitsu (private booths), of which the interior consists, either on the ground level or on the “1.5 Floor” above the ground level overlooking the dining area and white huts beneath. It was unfortunate that none of the huts were available, as they would certainly have provided an interesting

location for dinner, if not affording much of a view of the rest of the izakaya. The place already busy despite the early hour in the evening, we opted for one of the upper level rooms, accessed by small wooden stairs, containing a low table of black, polished wood surrounded by cushions that could have comfortably seated four.

Hot towels and menus were soon provided, with the waitress politely noting that this was our first visit. Indeed, throughout the meal the service was prompt, polite and friendly. Ordering beers, we spent some time peering down upon the lower level and the roofs of the huts and wondering what it must be like inside them, while nibbling at a fairly quotidian o-toshi of agedashi-dōfu topped with grated daikon and soy sauce with a decorative mizuna (potherb mustard) leaf beneath.

We kicked-off the meal with a large pile of gobō (burdock) karaage – tempura really – that was not quite crunchy enough and a little too oily, leading me to believe that it would have been better if fried less. This was a shame as, especially when dipped in the small bowl of salt provided, it was actually rather tasty all the same. A katsuo tataki salad followed, the katsuo (bonito) itself lightly seared and then sliced so that the flesh inside was still raw, and covered with a fair pile of lettuce, onions, and spring onions. Beneath the fish was a coating of tare sauce. Overall an enjoyable dish, although the katsuo was thinner than I would have hoped and the onions overpowering. The first of several large ichi-go glasses of Kamakura Jōsen, the recommended sake and produce of Akita prefecture, arrived and proved to be dry of taste and highly drinkable. As the drink took hold, my mood mellowed to suit the jazz playing in the background.

Next up was the Kamakura fū yokote no yakisoba, a famous dish also from Akita prefecture, consisting of egg noodles fried with onions, carrot and bacon in a sweet tasting sauce, upon which was placed a large poached egg. Not over-large, this particular dish was enjoyable. However, it really must be eaten soon after being served as when it begins to cool the sauce congeals to the point that it feels rather “kimochi-warui.” In need of pickles to accompany the sake, I almost went for the usual o-shinko moriawase, but instead the kyūri no goma-abura ai took my fancy. A delightful dish of crunchy, rough-hewn cucumber soaked in sesame oil and black pepper. Wonderful. The meal finished with abe-dori no yuzu-gosho yaki, pieces of Iwate chicken, not a spot of gristle found, cooked in a citrus sauce and topped with fried onion – yes, more onion – and leaves. Although we had eaten our fill,

the atmosphere was pleasingly relaxed, and as such we took our time enjoying the drink and secluded, elevated position at which we sat.

The food at Kamakura is reasonable. Nothing truly stands out, and the portions are at best average. In this Kamakura gives away its status as part of a small chain rather than an individual establishment. Not overly expensive, it’s not cheap either. Service is good, and the atmosphere pleasant enough. The interior is worth a look, and in general, thanks to all the tables being koshitsu, provides a good location for a small party or cozy meal for two. I would suggest that the most novel experience can be had seated within one of the small huts, and so it is probably best to try booking in advance. Certainly an option if you are in the vicinity or at times when Genkaya

or Kikka are full.

Tel: 03-5728-2977

Comments

[Brett Kaminski]

Unfortunately this place seems to have closed, unless it moved to another location.

[Dave]

Really? I know the building has had a make-over, so perhaps the rents became too high?