Tsuge, Shimo-Kitazawa 都夏、下北沢

An eight minute stroll down the crowded shōtengai on the south side of Shimo-Kitazawa station, opposite the post office, Tsuge is yet another izakaya belonging to the Jackpot group. Jackpot izakaya on the whole offer decent food, service and surroundings at affordable prices meaning that they are usually heaving with customers. Tsuge is no exception. As is often the case, I had seen this particular izakaya several times while on route to other eateries in the vicinity and impressed by its welcoming, busy appearance had made a mental note to pay a visit. On a Tuesday evening during which the heavens unleashed a hellish downpour my dining partner and I decided that the foul weather might just enable us to secure a table.

Tsuge’s façade and interior is pleasingly unpretentious. Reminiscent of simpler, rural Shōwa era izakaya, pale plaster walls, heavy wooden beams and lines of shōchu and sake bottles create a welcoming relaxed atmosphere. Of particular interest was that Tsuge has two entrances and two counters before open kitchens on left and right, the room divided by an interior wall so as to create a kind of U-shape dining area. Finding the place thankfully uncrowded, yet still busy considering the inclement weather, we handed our dripping umbrellas to a waiter and settled into a counter seat on the left of the shop near the entrance. Fortuitously close to a group of young ladies, dining upon a small raised tatami platform, one of who was conspicuously attractive, I also had a good view of the kitchen and the sodden street outside.

While Paul McCartney sang Live and Let Die in the background I ordered a tall glass of chilled Ichinokura, a sake that although not exceptional never fails to hit the spot, and marveled at the chirruping voices of insects. At this point my dining partner pointed around the room at many small plastic tanks filled with earth and twigs upon which little suzu-mushi (crickets) took their ease. Their song provided a lovely summery atmosphere, which set against the spattering rain and dripping gutters outside was like something out of jidai geki (historical drama.) A little surprised at the absence of an appetizer we scanned the menu; an impressively wide selection of fish, salads, kushi-yaki, vegetables, chicken and tofu dishes, all at reasonable prices. Another Ichinokura aided in my decision-making, and the meal soon commenced with an oshinko moriawase of pickled nasu (aubergine), takuan (yellow pickled radish), ginger, takana (leaf mustard) and some other, to me unknown, species of pickle. All were tasty, and notable for their subdued natural colouring. None of the all too usual colourings added. The subtle flavour suggested they were, perhaps, prepared in the Kyō (Kyoto) style. The nasu is best eaten quickly as it soon began to whither in the heat.

Next came an enormous kaisen sarada (seafood salad) in an oval dish, at least 40cm in length, piled with lettuce, daikon, and large pieces of raw maguro (tuna), aji (jack), tai (sea bream), hotake (?) and ebi (shrimp) in a simple dressing. Big, simple, tasty – this no frills salad could have fed four. As we enjoyed this a similarly sizable bowl of steaming daikon haita arami (stewed tuna and daikon) arrived, the fish topped with fresh mizuna (potherb mustard.) The pieces of daikon were large and soft, the stew itself rich tasting, owing to the tuna, which was in turn also delicious although rather bony. Having said that, the meat flaked away from the bones easily enough, although I found the effort to avoid the bones tried my patience somewhat. As the seats began to fill up the atmosphere became livelier, and in celebration McCartney retired to be replaced by Jim Morrison and Roadhouse Blues. A plate of lightly steamed o-yasai (vegetables) consisting of perfectly crunchy, natural looking mange tout, carrots, cauliflower, renkon (lotus root), broccoli, corn-on-the-cob and daikon with a dipping bowl filled with ponzu sauce was also delicious, large and provided ballast.

Almost full, I then opted for a large nigō tokuri of Ginban, a sake from Toyama, which came served in a tall, fluted tokuri set in a wooden bucket filled with ice. A rather unsophisticated taste, but drinkable all the same, at 1,100 yen it was certainly good value. We finished off the meal with eight slices of succulent momoniku yuzu goshō (charcoal-grilled chicken off the thigh with citrus and black pepper paste), served with “ice plant” a strange looking thing that naturally contains a lot of salt. I remain undecided as to whether I enjoyed this and indeed asked the chef if it really was intended for human consumption.

Sipping cups of hot tea, we agreed that all of the food and drink was tasty, if a little unrefined, large and extremely good value. The bill came to just a little over 3,000 yen per person. The service had been prompt and friendly, the surroundings comfortable, and the atmosphere relaxing. The menu offered plenty to choose from. No wonder Tsuge is always packed. Certainly recommended, but perhaps best to book ahead on weekends.

Tel: 03-3410-8237

Web: www.jack-pot.co.jp