Yodakinbo, Nakameguro よだきんぼ、中目黒

Few would deny that Nakameguro is one of Tokyo’s most popular locales, whether in terms of desirability as a place to live or seek an evening repast. Not that this was always the case. Certainly it wasn’t as fashionable, or expensive for that matter. As the Woodsman points out, back in the 90s (that’s 1990s not 1890s), when he had the honour of calling the place home it was a far more down to earth, working class neighbourhood that had yet to be encroached upon by the monied hipsters of neighbouring Daikanyama.

Still, Nakameguro is still host to a wonderful array of places at which to drink and eat, ranging from the down and dirty to higher-end dining experiences. Any town famed for its yakitori and which harbours such delights as Akira, Kushiwakamaru, Nakamenoteppen or the hugely entertaining Junkadelic deserves some attention and, no doubt, at least a little of your coin.

Yodakinbo, located just a few doors up from Junkadelic about a ten minute leisurely stroll from the station, isn’t exactly a yakitori-ya, it's a jidori-ya specialising in the chicken dishes of Miyazaki. Chicken, shochu and little else, as amply demonstrated by their woefully inadequate supplies of beer…

I visited aeons ago, so the details are more than a little hazy. I do remember being excited at the sight of the façade; simple, a little worn, with a worn noren hanging before the narrow entrance. The interior was equally narrow and limited to a little counter before the kitchen and a small, raised washitsu in which three low tables were arranged. A little shelf was stocked with bottles of shochu, and the master, along with his youthful serving girl, kept up a friendly welcome throughout the evening. The atmosphere was cosy and the décor, being a little sparse, suggested either no frills dining or quietly self-assured perfection. Neither were true. The food was very, very, good, although not earth – or wallet – shatteringly so.

My dining partners and I indulged heavily in beer. Once we’d drunk the house dry of the bottled variety we then made short work of the draught and, somewhat shocked, resorted to shochu, it being all that was left. On this front, the master either has limited storage, supply issues or a lot of thirsty customers. Judge for yourself. 

The menu, including the blackboard describing various recommendations of the day, offered a variety of chicken-based delights. Prices were good, not cheap, but not extortionate either. Some regular dishes were soon located, along with some more interesting ones. Bearing in mind that this visit was some time ago, you’ll have to refer to the photographs and excuse my (actually perhaps as always) limited description of the food. But, please believe me, it was immensely enjoyable. Well prepared, delicious and simple. The chicken did the talking here. 

There was a dish of lean, lightly seared momo, resting on the ubiquitous shaved daikon and showered with a ponzu dressing. The flesh itself, hugely flavoursome, was only barely cooked, almost sashimi. Then there was a salad, topped with dark, grilled meat of a more robust nature. This was, again, excellent, but if only there’d been more of it. The steaming, bubbling shallow pan was probably the chicken parts best not asked about. I seem to remember wolfing it down just the same. Either there beer had taken its toll by then, or it was good, too.

The chicken sashimi was great! Remember this just fine. What’s to say? Raw chicken, tender and tasty, and even better with the salt. The grilled thighs went down well too. Juicy, crisp skin and a nice smoky flavour. The tsukune were pretty good, although perhaps not textured enough. I don’t enjoy any gristle, but these were perhaps a little too smooth. Finally, the minced ball of raw chicken meat served on nori. Fantastic! But, you guessed it, not enough.

Great little place (thanks for the intro’ Tatsu) with plenty of character and an interesting menu. Worth subsequent visits, but probably not going to be a regular haunt.

Tel: 03-5721-3037

Comments

[Dominic]

sounds nice. raw chicken though - i was always told to cook it all the way through - ちょっと危ないですかね？

[Dave]

Indeed, it was rather nice.
The raw chicken thing... Not a problem, as long as it's fresh. Like so much of the raw food here, it's perfectly fine, and proves that much of our Western view of what should be boiled or burnt beyond recognition is in fact misguided.
Not sure I'd fancy raw chicken, or eggs for that matter, from the UK though...