Koyu, Nezu 呼友、根津

Nezu is a charming, gentrified shitamachi hangover from old Tokyo. There may well be plenty of true Edoko still residing in the neighbourhood, but I still hesitate to describe it as a hangover from old Edo. It’s not. If anything, it does still offer a glimpse of post-Edo era Meiji and Taisho Tokyo, which in this post-modern (read sinking ship) age of concrete, steel and glass is historic enough.

Much to my shame, I know Nezu just about as well as I do Sangenjaya, which is to say, hardly at all. I’ve zipped past it along the Shinobazu Dori by taxi a couple of times on my way home from a night’s charm at Isukura in neighbouring Sendagi, and did once make a visit to the somewhat touristy, though of high pedigree, Hantei.

But when that most prolific of Tokyo dining bloggers felt impelled to rhapsodise not once, but twice about Koyu, even going so far as to describe it as the best izakaya in town, and the Woodsman supported the claim, I knew a visit to Nezu’s Koyu was a must.

Actually, visiting Nezu is a must anyway. Before meeting my dining partner at Koyu, I spent an hour or so bumbling around the various backstreets off the main drag, and was pleased to discover untold numbers of excellent looking izakaya and nomiya. That I’ve not yet returned to check them out yet only goes to show how much I deprive myself of the pleasures this city has to offer.

I had high expectations of Koyu (as you might imagine following such a ringing endorsement), and yet they were only, truth be told, partly met. The interior was a little sterile. Well appointed, in clean, understated izakaya-modern style that reminded of a decent sushi bar in many ways. On the night I visited, at least, it was utterly devoid of atmosphere and only a little better stocked with customers; a middle-aged husband and wife were settled into the semi-private koagari area, busily mining their mouths with toothpicks. The expansive LCD flat screen television (think it was a Samsung) dominating the main wall of the dining area was just plain weird.

So too was the service. The master kept himself busy in the small kitchen behind the counter, and we heard not a peep from him all evening. The mistress of the house, I assume, was not in the best of moods. In fact, she seemed most put out at having to serve at all. She several times denied that they had ever served dishes about which we asked, despite my producing photographic evidence from the twinterweb (again courtesy of Mullers). After all the rhapsodising that had taken place, perhaps had endured one too many eager fanboys descending upon her peaceful establishment that year?

The food was an entirely different matter. Yes, it's all simple stuff, nothing too outlandish and very much in the classic izakaya style, only done very, very well. The ingredients are obviously considered and of the better variety, and the cooking is near faultless. As usual, I’d have liked to see a little more of each dish, but this was Nezu, after all, and this was an izakaya still paying for the recent refit.

The otoshi was tasty, clean and understated; green pepper, carrot, pumpkin and aubergine. Looked nice, tasted better and suggested greater things to come. The wagyu beef topped with oroshi-ponzu and served on a bed of leaves was wonderful. Juicy, lean, lightly cooked. Probably should have ordered it several times over, as it was certainly a highlight of the evening. So to was the grilled, pepper-dashed long potato. A strange, crunchy-sticky texture, and extremely flavoursome due to the pepper and grilling. A first, and a pleasant one at that.

As had been foretold, the sautéed cabbage and tuna (really from a tin?) was surprisingly good. Really, I had my doubts too, but it was quite excellent. The tempura of big, wholesome beans was also a joy. Light batter, not at all oily and perfect when dipped in salt.

Given that food was so good, it was a shame that in terms of atmosphere and service Koyu turned out to be such a disappointment. I’ll chalk it down to bad luck. On a better night, a fuller house and a lady who got out of the right side bed that morning might well be all it takes to make this izakaya truly great.

Tel: 03-3823-5533

Comments

[S Lloyd]

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I understood that this is one of the best Isakayas in Tokyo