Kōya, Ikebukuro 香家、池袋

Continuing in the Chinese chain shop vein, Tokyoeater mentioned a recent visit to Kōya via the Twinterweb and so, as we happened to be in the area, my dining partner and I decided to take a look at the Ikebukuro iteration. It’s conveniently located in the Esora building, a brief walk and an escalator ride or five away from the South exit of the station, and cooks up a simple line of Hong Kong style dishes.

I remain blissfully unaware of the persuasion of Esora’s tenants, but from what I glimpsed they sell the usual spread of ladies accessories, shoes, apparel and sickly-sweet cottagey European teapots and assorted kitchenware.

Pre-meal research had caused us to worry – quite needlessly as it turned out – that Kōya would be heaving of a Friday night and, moreover, that the Ikebukuro Esora store is particularly “girly.” It was neither. There were four other customers at best, and only one of them was female, and not at all girly at that.

Most department store/ mall-enclosed dining spots leave me despairing at the best of times. Utterly lacking in character and authenticity, they seem best left to lunches rather than precious evening hours. Unfortunately Kōya did little to persuade me otherwise. Both food and service were passable. Not outstanding in any way, I had hoped for more, somehow, and thus felt a pang of disappointment. Not sure what I’d been hoping for… Maybe a little more spice, a punchy taste or richer “ethnic” flavours. Whatever I’d wanted it wasn’t supplied in sufficient style.

Sticking to beer, we made short work of the appetizer, the negi to chāshū no piri kara. Enjoyable enough, but the negi was somewhat overpowering. My dining partner, being determined to take a hit of spiciness, had the oni tantanmen, which although certainly spicy overplayed its hand a little, so as to catch the back of throat. Volume and presentation (clean) were both fine, although the thin noodles were lost amidst the strong taste.

My shirunashi tantanmen shōrompo setto did indeed lack soup and come accompanied by small dumplings, the twain completing the set. The dumplings were steaming, soft and a little dull. The noodles, topped with spicy minced meat were very, very dry, so as to clog the mouth, and relied over much on fresh cut negi set all around. The taste of which detracted from the peppery flavour of the noodles and smacked of budget “bulking out.”  A shame really, as given less negi and more of the noodles I’d have happily devoured more of this, provided I had the beers to wash it down.

My views on these kinds of places – or rather locations – remain unchanged. Kōya makes for a reasonable lunch, and represents fairly good value for money even if the food itself lacks subtlety.  Not worthy of an evening visit though.

Tel: 03-5944-9158 

Web: koya.co.jp