Fortunately, my initial introduction to the delights of horsemeat occurred in Kumamoto, Kyushu, a region famed for the high quality and abundance of the rich tasting flesh. There, heaps of the stuff, thickly cut and yet still tender, are served with garlic and ginger. Unfortunately my introduction was begun with basashi (raw horsemeat or “horsemeat sashimi” as some would have it), and delightful though that is, did not extend to the pleasures of cooked varieties.
Even more unfortunately, Tokyo is not renowned for either the quality or quantity of the servings of basashi, when it is available at all. The supposedly “excellent,” but actually rather mundane, Tabaruzaka in Nakano serves up miserly slices of the stuff, for instance, although Ebisu’s Denbe Kura provides a somewhat more generous plate.
As fortune would have it, however, another Ebisu izakaya, Bakuro, goes a long way to redressing the lack of quality horsemeat, both raw and cooked, and in an interesting variety of cuts.
Located just a stones throw from the west exit of Ebisu station, behind the Daimaru Peacock supermarket, this small izakaya is easily located and instantly recognizable for its rather charming façade of lattice and wooden panelling. Stepping in, I was immediately informed by a somewhat worried looking waiter that “this shop serves horsemeat, is that ok?” to which a replied “well that’s just what we’ve come for.” Such cultural divides safely bridged, I took a quick glance around the ground floor, utterly devoid of customers – to my horror – and rather Spartan. Thankfully, my dining partner and I were swiftly ushered upstairs (which are perilously steep, especially for dining partners fond of high heels) to the far more cosy confines of several semi-private dining areas, separated each from the other by dark wood lattices, shochu bottle-lined shelves, and various rustic looking horse themed decorations.
Beers served, along with a delicious otoshi of rocket greens (these accompanied just about everything as it would turn out) topped with a kind of mayonnaise salad of sweet corn and some other bean, we spent quite some time browsing the menu. Although one might argue that vegetables and salads are perhaps underrepresented, there is a vast array of fried, charcoal grilled and boiled dishes available, as well as a gorgeous looking nabe (hot pot). As expected the main focus is on horsemeat. Lots of it, and to my uneducated eyes rather bewildering.
Determined as I was to sample the cooked meat, I couldn’t resist trying the basashi, as that would serve as my basis of comparison and, moreover, a variety of different cuts were on the menu. Taking the easy way out, we ordered the basashi moriawase, consisting of three reasonable slices of five different basashi. All were excellent. The usual rich red kind, a slightly buttery bacon-like offering, another slightly marbled beef-like one, and two waxy, heavily marbled varieties. All were taken with grated garlic, ginger or wasabi and dipped in soy sauce.
After several beers (reasonably priced I might add), I skipped over the sake selection in favour of the shochu, which are abundant due to the Kyushu theme of the place. Knowing less than nothing about the drink, and still less than sure that I actually like the stuff, I went for the Tanabata just because I could read the kanji. Verdict? Not too bad, although as usual it disappeared far to quickly and left me feeling a little light headed.
Next up was the karubi (belly meat), charcoal grilled, sliced, topped with spring onion and served with rocket greens, salt, wasabi and lemon. Delightfully pink, tender and succulent, my only complaint would be that there should have been more of it. The highlight of the evening, especially if judged by the beaming smile of my dining partner, was the horsemeat karaage. Just like the chicken variety (i.e. like KFC), this was horsemeat fried in a light batter. Actually, the batter was very, very light, and oily in a good way. The meat itself was superb. Truly delicious. Lightly seared on the outside, the middle had a wonderful purple hue that reminded me of katsuo tataki. I could have had this again, and again and again.
Throughout the evening the service was excellent. The staff all looked barely out of nappies, with plenty of spiky quiffs, which made the prompt, well-spoken delivery of the waiters all the more surprising. The atmosphere was good enough – cosy, warm and fairly lively as the night went on. The cleverly concealed toilet door also provides added mirth…
I loved Bakuro. I will return again soon. And then probably some more. The menu is packed with delicious sounding dishes, and as my appetite declines as the years add up I’m not able to sample enough in one sitting. So, good location, good atmosphere, good service and excellent food, with plenty to draw you back for more. Well-priced too. Surprisingly so. Splendid!
Tel: 03-5459-8348
Monday, December 12, 2011 at 7:20PM | 
Bonenkai, much like birthday parties, are often great chances to try somewhere one might otherwise never have heard of.
This particular “forget the year party” saw us head out to Sakimura, an ageing izakaya on a side street off a back street just off the main drag of Ningyocho, about five minutes chilly stroll from the station.
Situated on the second floor of decidedly nondescript building, the interior was bare bones to say the least. The main dining area – spacious though it was – had the look and feel of a canteen, a place for truckers or late night shift workers to get sozzled at before drifting home. More than likely the furnishings had been done in the early eighties, and never bothered with since. Still, it added to the character.
Our party was, thankfully, put out of sight in a large washitsu. Tatami, low tables, cushions, faded beer posters and aching joints.
Some kind of set-menu had been arranged, and so bottled beer flowed uninterrupted, while a couple of old ladies supplied a regular stream of dishes. None of which were mind blowing, mind you, but they did the job in terms of keeping us drinking without embarrassing mishaps.
Aside from the tamago-yaki, daikon and chicken stew, yaki-soba and veggies, the stars of the night where the maguro kama (which yielded a generous quantity of succulent flesh) and the sashimi moriawase. This, despite being a little rough looking, like off-cuts leftover from the previous night, was surprisingly good.
