Roaming the streets of Jiyugaoka (it is now abundantly clear to me why it is the second favourite dwelling place of Tokyoites) several izakaya and other Asian restaurants grabbed my attention. None so much, however, as Bettako. Its stylish façade with rust-effect iron work lanterns and shop sign promised attention to detail and a fine dining experience. I was not disappointed. In fact, rather than reading this blog stop whatever you are doing (if you are at work, quit) and get thee hence! You’ll not regret the visit. Simply, Bettako is excellent.
Peering through the small window in the front door I glimpsed a dark interior oozing with atmosphere. Stepping in my dining partner and I were greeted in somewhat cold fashion by a waitress who promptly asked if we had reserved a table. Seeming somewhat perturbed when we replied in the negative, she gave me a look, as if to say 
“you are not known here,” before glancing to the back of the dimly lit main area and the master busy with something in the open kitchen behind the counter. He silently nodded approval and we were then shown to a cosy semi-private room separated from the main room by poles of dark, polished bamboo and ancient looking sliding lattice panels of thin, pale wood and even thinner glass. The spacious table – four would have been accommodated comfortably – was illuminated from above by the dim glow of a warm orange light. To our right, at a similar table, two well-dressed elderly gentlemen were deep in conversation, a delicious looking meal spread before them. Menus were provided and drink orders taken, still in a rather cold fashion, and then while sipping on a too weak whiskey highball, ruined by the addition of a slice of lemon, we studied the menu, which immediately struck us interesting.
We had entered at 6.30pm, at which point the place was already fairly busy, the atmosphere one of quiet conversation occasionally coloured with laughter and the sounds of cooking from the kitchen. Ten minutes later and Bettako was decidedly busy, and by 7.30pm it was packed, so much so that customers were being turned away, there being not a seat left in the house. Clearly a popular izakaya, even on a weekday and despite it being Golden Week and Tokyo having emptied out somewhat. An o-toshi of tender chicken with broccoli, red and yellow peppers and sesame arrived, followed swiftly by another consisting of a bowl of raw cabbage and three dipping sauces – spicy miso, salt and a slightly spicy, sour tasting one reminiscent of Vietnamese cooking. Both were delicious, well presented and of a good size. Washing them down with a beer I took in my surroundings.
Bettako is larger than it at first seems. Several semi-private rooms lay off the main floor, which itself is dominated by a curious octagonal table of heavy wood in the centre of which are displayed bottles of sake. A good size counter runs before the open kitchen, and stairs lead to a second floor, gallery like, which looks down on to the first. The dark polished wood floors, rustic bare walls, bamboo and old-style lattices are complimented by the dark, mysterious nooks and crannies created by thick, rough hewn beams and passage ways. Classic izakaya design. Perfection.
Orders taken, we soon enjoyed an o-shinko moriawase (selection of pickles) made up of fresh, crisp cucumber, cabbage, daikon and kabu (turnip). Not large, but delicious all the same. As the master politely explained the origin, history, and finer points of a certain sake to the two gentleman seated besides us, at the same time providing them with tasters, compliments of the house, the waitress – now somewhat friendlier, brought an excellent plate of boiled octopus in a carpaccio dressing served upon a bed of ruccola (rocket) leaves, the presentation of which seemed more fitting to a Mediterranean restaurant than an izakaya. This fusion of East and West was a theme returned to later on in the course of the meal. Still marvelling at the octopus, skewers of chunky, glistening rich-brown chicken liver, cooked to tender perfection, and skewers of large, juicy erengi mushrooms wrapped in thin bacon, further impressed. The erengi and bacon was particularly good, the two flavours naturally complimenting each other.
In the mood for sake we called over the master to ask for his recommendations. A large, round, baby-faced fellow, we immediately took to him. Polite, softly spoken and attentive he carefully explained the selection of sakes, from which I chose the Ginrei-Tateyama, a clear, crisp tasting sake described by the master as “sappari” (plain / light / clean). The master himself plainly takes great pride and care in his work and establishment. Always attentive, he padded softly, in his traditional soft-soled setta sandals, around the izakaya making hardly a sound and all the while glancing to each table making sure that his customers were cared for and enjoying their meals. When his attention was given it was always courteous, even personally clearing and wiping down tables rather than delegating such tasks to a waitress. Everything the master of a quality izakaya should be. Bringing the bottle of Ginrei-Tateyama, he poured a generous amount into the glass allowing it to overflow so as to almost fill the glass masu in which the glass rested. As it turned out, the walls of the masu being considerably thinner than is the case with the usual wooden variety, the amount of sake held was indeed considerable, amounting to two and a half glasses in one serving. Excellent.
Next came the shiromizakana no shaki-shaki salad, another fusion of Japanese and Western styles, the taste of the fish, hirame (sole), set off beautifully by the mix of daikon, cress, carrot, red onion and ginger, with extra sparkle added by another Mediterranean style dressing. Although I do not know for sure, I would hazard a guess that the master has been trained in Western cooking and perhaps even worked abroad, the presentation and style of so many of the dishes being more what one would expect in a fashionable restaurant in Omotesando or Daikanyama. Although we did not try them, other customers ordered such dishes as pizza (lovely thin crust – Italian style) and garlic bread, all which looked fantastic. Enjoying myself utterly I ordered another Ginrei-Tateyama and some more yakitori, soft white sasami chicken topped with a rich, strong tasting plum sauce. The place now heaving, the sounds of conversation and laughter filling the air, a glass of Masumi, another excellent sake that is swiftly becoming a favourite of mine, and a final dish to finish the meal. This time a wonderfully presented, Western style offering of spicy lamb on the bone served upon a layer of erengi scattered with garlic, rosemary and sliced chilli pepper. Again, another faultless dish. Most amazing of all, considering the quality, was the price; only 735 yen, when it could have easily fetched 2,000 yen in an upmarket restaurant. In fact, Bettako is remarkable for the value it represents. All prices, drinks included, are reasonable and indeed seem lower than they ought to be.
Full, content, happy we simply could not bring ourselves to leave. A short rest, this time sipping on another favourite sake, Suigei, we could not help but be drawn back to the menu. My dining partner chose ice cream with banana dressed with chocolate sauce, while I, ever the traditionalist, opted for an onigiri (rice ball) wrapped in black-green nori and filled with strong tasting katsuo (bonito flakes) accompanied by two small slices of pickled daikon upon which, almost unnoticed, two little white grains of koji (malt), were placed. I would have overlooked them or mistaken them for stray grains of rice, had not the master, with pride, pointed out the subtle embellishment. Masterful. This was washed down with a steaming bowl of white miso soup.
I cannot sing praise for Bettako enough. Certainly the most enjoyable izakaya dining experience I have had in many years. The interior design, atmosphere, service (despite its rocky start), the food, the presentation and taste of which were exceptional, and the prices render this an establishment not to be missed. Even more surprising is that Bettako is actually part of a small chain of izakaya and yakiniku restaurants scattered throughout Tokyo and Yokohama, and yet retains the quality and originality usually reserved for lone establishments.
Please, stop reading and go there. Now.
Update 11/01/10: A recent visit proved to be just as enjoyable as the first. Excellent food, again interesting and nicely presented. The menu has changed, with some favourites missing and some wonderful new experiences in their place. This time, we dined on the 2nd floor in a large horigotasu koshitsu, managing to squeeze a group of eleven in comfortably. Service was first rate from the off-set this time, with the staff easily dealing with large orders from our party.
Tel: 03-3724-4316
Sunday, June 27, 2010 at 7:24PM | 
I’ve intended to write-up my visits to Kawame, Jiyugaoka, for some time now, but like so much else on this blog (and more generally), I’ve never found the time. So, for what it’s worth, here follows my impression of the place following two visits (had to make sure); the first on a wet freezing night in early spring with The Woodsman, the second in May, when the weather was delightful.
Jimmy Dean’s recommendation had done much to raise my expectations of the place, and overall they were not disappointed. Kawame is a tastefully appointed affair about five minutes stroll from the Toyoko line Jiyugaoka station. Set back of the street and recognised by the noren hanging before the entrance, from the outset the appearance of this izakaya suggests an understated, considered dining experience.
The interior is actually rather attractive in a Japanese-modern style, dominated by a gleaming almost room-length counter before an open kitchen of stainless steel, table seating along the right-hand side of the dining area, and to the rear horikotatsu on a raised tatami area. This, it must be said, is less well appointed, and reminded me somewhat of the dining area in a resort onsen or something. The lightning is suitably atmospheric, kind of dark with a soft warm glow emanating from the washi light shades.
Service is pretty good. The chefs go about their business, while a couple of young ladies (pleasing to the eye but not conspicuously attractive) wait the floor. For the thirsty, a selection of sake, shochu, wine, beer and perhaps something for the ladies (I tend to lose interest once sour or any other such beverage is mentioned) are available. If memory serves (a big if I admit) the selection of sake is not vast, although I do recall staples such as Denshu and Kubota, and also the currently in vogue Kokuryu. These, as is the beer, are a little overpriced to my mind. I’m becoming increasingly fed up with steep prices on drinks. ¥700 for a small beer, for example, is just plain annoying. I’d rather they add to the cost of the food (if it’s as good as it is at Kawame), and allow me to take the edge off the joys of married “bliss” without the bill escalating to vertiginous heights.
Anyway, I digress. On both visits, after an o-toshi of some kind of tsubugai that was far too chewy, we had the sashimi moriawase which is nothing short of wonderful. Extremely good value (I’d happily pay more for this rather than being robbed on the drinks menu), being both large, interesting in terms of the fish and shellfish comprising the selection, beautifully presented and very, very fresh. The usual fish are all present as well as one or two seasonal offerings. Great stuff. This alone is the worth a visit.
The tempura is also very good. Again, a fairly decent size and perfectly fresh vegetables and seafood. The batter is very light, although I do prefer a somewhat stronger taste. Still, crisp, crunchy and reasonably priced considering the quality. Onigiri, both nori-wrapped and grilled varieties, are also surprisingly good, being served with a small specimen of pickles.
An excellent salad – lettuce, tomato, daikon, yellow peppers, nori – was notable for its extremely high quality, i.e. small, shirasu. A simple dish, well executed and surprisingly pleasing. Big, soft soramame with dipping salt accompanied the beer perfectly, although I couldn’t help wish for pile of them rather than the handful that arrived.
Some grilled fish – Buri? Hamachi? Uncle N, please let me know – was also excellent. As was the takenoko, although not quite as good as that enjoyed at Sazaya. A kind of korokke of mashed soramame made a nice change, and the grilled jidori ended the meals in succulent fashion.
service. A cut above the average, although you pay for it once drinks are factored in. Mostly smoke free, as just one corner of the counter, near the entrance, is reserved for those with a death wish. Great venue for a relaxing meal, although not for a party. 
