
According to the Japan Vegan Restaurant Pocketguide, Non is a “traditional Japanese izakaya” at which delicious hand-cooked vegan food is prepared and served by the owner-chef, Ms. Non, a lady who finds cooking with non-meat based ingredients far more interesting. According to the friend who introduced me to Non, it has a very “Shōwa” atmosphere. I took this to mean something similar to “traditional izakaya.” Although neither vegan nor vegetarian myself, I found the prospect of trying the unknown delights of vegan Japanese cuisine quite exciting, while wondering if the meal would satisfy my belly. At the very least, I thought, it would be healthy. Leaving the west exit of Meguro station, umbrellas in hand, we trudged through the pouring rain, crossing the Meguro river and eventually, after maybe seven or eight minutes walk, arrived at Non.
Located at basement level, reached by a set of steps directly off the street, one is greeted by a rather attractive shop sign entwined with flowers, beneath which a table with ashtray and lighters is set up for smokers, the interior being a completely smoke free environment; something of a rarity among izakaya. Perhaps this, and the vegan food of course, explain why this establishment is apparently so popular with women? Non’s interior is simple, perhaps a little too much so. A fairly good sized room with a kitchen and counter – not large – on the left, and on the right a raised platform of tatami mats upon which are arranged three low tables at which four or five may sit comfortably. Along the right-hand wall, placed on a ledge above the tables, a row of sake bottles adds interests as does a colour map of the Japanese archipelago, cut out and mounted on foam card so as to make it stick out from the wall. Near the door a rack 
of magazines, concerning vegan cooking, and scattered about on the right various reprints of old beer advertisements, plump-limbed, cherry-lipped beauties of old inviting patrons to sample the tasty beverage. Strangely, in the middle of all this, between counter on left and tables on right, is nothing. Unused space. The majority of the shop left empty, the dull wooden floor boards being the only decoration. Why this should be I have no idea. Perhaps not enough custom to warrant filling the void with tables and chairs? Whatever the reasoning behind the space, it created a rather bare, even cold atmosphere, especially if one is sat on the edge of the raised tatami next to it. This simple, modern interior, does not, in my mind, create a “traditional” (yes, yes, what is traditional anyway?) or “Shōwa” dining experience. Nothing wrong with that, just not what I had been led to expect. I wasted little time with such private complaints, as the rather large selection of dishes on the menu, and the chilled Yebisu, had by then commanded my full attention.

It being Ms. Non’s birthday we were told that the o-toshi – one of carrot, sesame, konnyaku (jelly-like, calorie-less food made from the starch of devil’s tongue), gherkins and bracken (a first for me, and actually rather tasty) – were compliments of the house. The service, like the room itself, was bright and friendly, if a little slow. Only one member of staff accompanied Ms. Non, and as she cooks all the food herself its delivery can take some time, even though it was not particularly busy on the night we visited. The menu is available in both Japanese and English, contains a good variety of dishes – raw, fried, rice-based, noodle-based, vegetables, tofu and deserts – all well presented on a nice collection of Japanese style bowls and dishes, with the portions and prices being reasonable. By the time we had eaten a full meal the cost reached around 5,500 yen per head. Some of the English translation on the menu is rather unappetizing, for example the “fake squid sushi”, although, thankfully, most of what is served is tasty.

Our meal kicked-off with a plate of five glistening veggie gyōza sprinkled with chopped spring onion. These were delicious, very light, so that I did not once miss the taste of meat, and perfectly crispy on the fried side. While we awaited the arrival of the salad, my dining partners tried the ryokucha-hai, a strong tasting, bright green, cocktail of tea and alcohol that, we all agreed, was somewhat overpowering. The salad turned out to be a simple, though attractively wholesome, arrangement of leaves, carrot, tomato and sesame, sprinkled with dried nori, and had not been for the heavenly vegan mayonnaise I would have written off the dish completely. The mayo is simply wonderful. A secret recipe of Ms. Non’s, it was light, not at all vinegary, and subtle. At the urging of my vegan dining partner we then had the “fake” (i.e. soya meat) chicken karaage. Verdict? Not bad actually. Looks more or less like the real thing, tasted well enough – although not quite 
like chicken – and even had a texture closely resembling that of real poultry. Certainly interesting and much healthier than devouring mountains of KFC!
Tiring of beer I tried a selection of three sakes, presented on a little red and black lacquer tray, the names of each sake hand written on a card resting upon the cups. As always, the Yorokobi-gaijin (when we ordered this the waitress thought my dining partner was in fact referring to myself, rather than the sake. Yes, I’m a gaijin, but a yorokobi one? Rarely.) was excellent, enjoyed for its slightly woody taste, as if served in a masu. The slightly yellow hue of the strange tasting Gonin-musume may be attributed to its apparently being made using ancient methods, while the Murayū, from Nīgata prefecture, was highly drinkable. While enjoying these a good-sized dish of chijimi (a kind of Korean pancake) arrived, which to my mind was a little bland, although despite it not containing any shrimps, one could certainly taste them. Then 
came the dish that for me would be the highlight of the meal. Vegan sushi-rolls, eight of them, made with brown rice, stuffed with takuan and other pickles, the brown rice creating a lovely branny taste. Attractive, and interesting in that they differ from the sushi one usually eats, this I particularly recommend.
By this point the service seemed to have momentarily ground to a halt, and in need of amusement I opted for another glass (actually a wooden masu this time) of Yorokobi-gaijin. Bizarrely no sooner had I ordered it than I was asked to get up from my cushion so that the waitress could lift the tatami up and grab a bottle from among those stored under the floor. A novel use of space, perhaps, but not exactly practical if the place was busy and sake bottles in need of constant fetching.

Although now feeling rather full, I was still keen to try as many dishes as possible (what I must endure for this blog) and so decided on the Asupara-tsutsumi Mochikibi fry, basically a kind of kurokke, but hard as rock, with asparagus at the center, served with a chunō sauce made from millet. Bland, hard to eat, I’d avoid this next time. Interested to know what vegan deserts are like, I then proceed to have tiramisu, which did not really work somehow. Perhaps due to it containing no egg, butter, sugar or honey. Moreover, although well presented, it was minuscule. The Tofu cheesecake enjoyed by my dining partners received a better appraisal, and indeed looked delicious.
The final verdict? Although I know little of vegan food this first experience left me generally impressed. Certainly the variety of dishes, including many “fake” ones in the place 
of those containing meat and fish, is interesting and for the most part well considered and delicious. Some were a little bland and, especially as I began to feel the effects of the sake, I longed for one or two stronger flavours. Although slow, the service was polite and friendly. The atmosphere was not bad, although it would benefit from a fuller house. Reasonably priced we were able eat our fill without breaking the bank, although I missed larger, cheaper glasses of beer. It’s an izakaya after all! I recommend a visit, for the food, and for the experience itself. For those who are vegan or vegetarian I would assume the ability to have an izakaya experience without (inadvertently) subjecting animals to cruelty is a rare and welcome one. A meal at Non is certainly healthy, being made with all natural ingredients and being based mainly on vegetables and soya beans. As a young lady on the 
table behind us confided in hushed tones, however, each time she visits Non, the following day she craves meat.
Tel: 03-5434-2669