Hongo looks tempting. It’s a little izakaya nestled amongst variously ugly buildings that line the banks of the “Shibuya river” (actually now little more than a concrete channel through which a couple of inches of water and scum flow) and the right hand side of Meiji Dori if you head out of Shibuya station in the direction of the intersection with Komazawa Dori and Ebisu.
Not that the neighbourhood lacks interesting looking places to dine. Dotted around are all manner of izakaya, bars and raman shops (especially on the section of Meiji Dori immediately out of the station), many of which are to be found in the most unlikely – perhaps not for Tokyo – spots. Hongo itself is right on the little bridge over the river, overshadowed by the Toyoko line and drab looking office buildings. You might pass it by without a glace during the day, but of an evening Hongo and the Hongo yakiniku-ya above it, are transformed into a vision of welcome and promised enjoyment thanks to the large glowing lantern at the entrance. Perhaps it’s the family of cats with their little homes set up near the entrance that appeals, too.
The interior is classic izakaya. Lots of dark wood, a polished counter lined with shochu bottles, shelves to the rear of the space housing sake bottles, and a large chalk board describing the recommended dishes. It must be said that over several visits these recommended items have been exactly the same each time. I’ll also point out that I’ve not always been graced with an o-toshi at Hongo. A small point, yet annoying for the inconsistency if nothing else.
The atmosphere is pretty good. Cosy, though not exactly “warm,” especially if seated by the floor to ceiling window looking out over the bamboo, cat bowls and river. Service comes with a snaggle-toothed smile courtesy of the old man charged with caring for customers and is reasonably prompt.
Patrons mainly seem to be salarymen and partners, mistresses, girlfriends and – possibly – their wives.
Despite the good range of shochu and less good range of sake on offer, I’ve stuck to beer at Hongo as my visits happened to fall in the already much missed sultry summer nights of not so long ago. I’d hazard that the sake list wouldn’t excite certain people (you know who you are). I did have the Hiroki, produce of Fukushima, which was drinkable but neither dry enough nor exciting. Price-wise the sake seems a little steep considering the volume.
As for the cooking, the one time my dining partner and I did enjoy an o-toshi it came in the form of chunky pieces of octopus sashimi, a little on the chewy side and yet pleasantly robust, if a little bland. The pickles seem a little lacklustre too. Not dynamic enough, and the vinegar, i.e., pickled, taste was weak. The usual suspects appeared; cucumber, carrot, daikon, aubergine and cabbage. The katsuo-tataki, served with grated ginger and shiso leaves, has been good overall, not too fishy, fresh and of a decent size. The seared edge never seems seared enough though.
The morsels of pork on a stick (can’t remember the name) were tasty, but hardly polished. The bed of cabbage comes in handy as it helps to pad out the meal, which is say portions aren’t large even if they aren’t painfully small. Thankfully, the sanma was much, much better. But then again, even I can turn out decent sanma so no medals awarded. Still, worth ordering.
Salad… This particular example had a kind of smoky/bacon-y flavour despite there being not a slither of bacon therein. Tomatoes, leaves, mushrooms, mayonnaise and bonito flakes did make an appearance. The first couple of mouthfuls were very enjoyable, and yet the strong smoky flavour ultimately become overbearing. The kampachi sashimi was fair-to-middling, too.
Hongo isn’t bad, I actually enjoy it quite a lot, but it’s not great either. It promises more than it delivers, mainly because the chef(s) seem intent on playing it safe. I’ll give the place points for a being a welcome change for central Shibuya, and for the cats. Take a look if you are in the area. If not pleased, drink up quick, try the yakiniku-ya upstairs and let me know what it’s like.
Tel: 03-5774-0055
Thursday, April 26, 2012 at 7:02PM | 
Not far from where Volantaire used to perch, Sakura is a tastefully appointed modern izakaya/ dining bar in Jingumae’s B6 building, more or less opposite the many faceted Audi showroom.
Dark interior, stylish yet simple furnishings and a decking veranda that must be great when it’s not raining (a rare chance of late!) combine with brisk, friendly service, quality cooking and an intimate, quietly convivial atmosphere to create a pleasant dining experience. 
The menu covers the gamut of izakaya staples, with each seemingly prepared from quality ingredients with an equal focus on presentation and volume.
Although my dining companion and I were too absorbed in conversation to delve deeply, those dishes we did enjoy were delicious, although, and as others have noted, the sashimi is okay rather than great, despite looking pretty.
The salad was plentiful, possessed of a delicious sesame-enfused dressing and both soft and crunchy textures. The takenoko, being in season, was very good, too.
The best, or at least most memorable, dish of the evening was the otoshi. Served on elongated platter, at least half a meter in length, it presented us (to our glad surprise) with an array of different flavours, textures and cooking styles, from simmered to deep fried, with pickles and chewy snails in between. 
