Ginsuiso, Izu-inatori 銀水荘、東伊豆町

A stay at a ryokan is a fine thing. Especially if it provides a cozy room, onsen a sea view and an interesting menu.

Ginsuiso, an apparently well-reputed inn in Hagashiizu-cho (nearest station: Izu-Inatori), ticked all these boxes, and managed to heat the rooms so perfectly that one could ponce around in a yukata even in early January without the slightest shiver.

Both the evening meal and breakfast were substantial and nicely presented. The service provided was excellent, truly attentive and willing to explain and describe tirelessly. If there were any complaint with the food, it would be that they over played the seafood card with the breakfast. Sure, this inn is right on the sea, but every dish was some kind of fish, shellfish, unholy jelly-like substance or seaweed of some kind.

As expected, drinks were hugely over priced. Thankfully I managed to “smuggle” a few bottles in, so all was not lost.

Dinner consisted of a variety of dishes, ranging from shellfish to cream soup. 

Awabi odori-yaki – live abalone grilled on tabletop brazier

Shiro-ebi konoko gake – white shrimp served on sea cucumber ovary sauce – with shin-takenoko, ika kinomiae – new bamboo and squid topped with tree buds

Ikura, kinome, uni, yuba bekko an – roe, tree buds and sea urchin resting on tofu skin simmered in broth

Maguro, shiromi, uni sashimi – tuna, white fish and sea urchin sashimi

Kinmedai sugata zukuri to awabi – sashimi of splendid alfonsino and abalone

Kinmedai nitsuke – splendid alfonsino simmered in sweet soy sauce, complimented with daikon radish and aubergine 

Kinmedai sanma sushi, hatsuki kinkan mitsuni, hizu kazunoko matsumaetsuki, kukonomi, aiyu nibitashi shirozu – splendid alfonsino and mackerel sushi, honey-poached kumquat, salmon cartilage with herring roe, Chinese desert-thorn seeds and sweetfish simmered in white vinegar

Chilled Fubuki – the only sake of the evening

Steak with salad

Cream soup

Kani zosui – crab and rice porridge

Breakfast

Pickles

Maguro sashimi, ebi, wasabi zuke – tuna sashimi, shrimp and fermented wasabi

Salad

05-5795-0161

Ginsuiso

Kaasan, Nishi-Shinjuku かあさん、西新宿

Kaasan (“Mum”) is an interesting chain of izakaya dotted around the city in major transport hubs and business districts.

The theme is simple, yet successful. Focusing on down-to-earth home style cooking and presentation, these izakaya are staffed by teams of middle-aged motherly ladies who bustle around taking orders, relaying them at high volume to the kitchen, and pouring sake and kindly – if somewhat direct –  words for their customers.

The interiors seem to vary little between the handful of Kaasans I’ve visited (although I mostly end up in the Nishi-Shinjuku store, on the street behind the Yodobashi Camera honten); worn wooden floors, heavy set wooden tables and benches and long counter before an open kitchen, upon which huge bowls and dishes containing simple, robust dishes are displayed. Usually to rear of the shop, fridges chill a nice selection of sake, while beer kegs congregate around the till for some reason. In other words, it’s all intended to hark back to simpler times.

Tired as this approach can appear, it actually does serve to pull the heartstrings of older salarymen. The veneer of home, of the tender wife setting pickles and beer before him when back late from work, or else distant memories of his own mother back home in the mythical furusato. I doubt these images now resonate much with younger Japanese. The clientele seems mainly to be middle-aged men and women at any rate, with perhaps a smattering of younger “nostalgia” seekers.

They might get a dose of the good old days, but not much in the way of fine dining. Kaasan isn’t really about the food. Which is not to say it’s bad – it’s not. It’s just unpretentious, basic, hearty and yet decidedly average stuff. Fish and chicken, fried and grilled mainly, as well the kuroke are usually gracing most tables. Seasonal vegetable dishes usually make an appearance, but tend to suffer from being over cooked. Chunky, low-grade sashimi, potato salad and all manner of pickled, deep-fried and stewed dishes. Although way to oily, the deep-fried gobo (burdock) is a personal favourite. Prices are very reasonable, bordering on cheap. So too for the beer.

Although, Kaasan is more about sake than beer. They have plenty of the stuff, covering a surprising variety of regions and makers. Sadly, the sake is less aggressively priced than the food and beer. What seems like a cheap meal can soon turn out otherwise if you, or one of your dining partners, have a thirst on.

Still, the (usually) lively atmosphere and simple surroundings (not to mention large tables) make a nice change once in a while.

03-3344-0771

http://www.kasan.jp/

Gyōssantei, Shibuya 魚山亭、渋谷

The shop card I have for Gyōssantei – a decent little izakaya located opposite the entrance to Shibuya’s Bunkamura – has a date scrawled on it: 4/10/09/. I’m lazy about posting izakaya visits… 

Topline judgment? Well worth a visit, but with a few caveats.

They serve a fantastic line in Kyushu cuisine, the majority of which focuses on that of Miyazaki prefecture; which of course tends to mean jidori, or naturally reared chicken. Which isn't to say there’s not more than just chicken, whether charcoal-grilled or deep-fried and smothered in mayo - namban style, to recommend Gyōssantei’s pantry.

For instance, the abura miso salad was exemplary. Dynamic, in that delightfully “in your face” way that izakaya sometimes get so right. This “salad,” served in a wooden masu (a nice touch), consisted of chunky cuts of celery, carrot, cucumber, daikon and leaves accompanied by a miso and berry-oil paste.

On the other hand, the unashamedly chewy otoshi of snails succeeded in offending. A local (to Miyazaki) beer, Hideji, went some way to making amends, being light, crisp and faintly hoppy. So too the various grilled fish heads.

The sashimi, in this instance a moriawase of maguro, kasago and saba, was excellent, just way too dainty.

If grilled fish is really your thing (it should be) then the yaki kamasu, a somewhat infrequently served, thoroughly delicious long-snouted species, will put a smile on your face.

As will the Yukkuri – a potent shōchū which to be honest sent my head spinning…

When feeling tipsy, some meat helps. I looked no further than the buta kakuni with shiraga negi. The three succulent, weighty pieces were not at all oily and only lightly doused in juices, so as to retain some of that delightful crumbly texture that good braised pork offers.

A wonderful oshinko moriawase – cucumber, carrots, ginger, daikon, takuan, kombu and umeboshi – provided a fantastic array of strong flavours, too. This offset the overpowering sweetness of the Jūyondai; a sake I’ve not bothered to revisit since.

Food aside, the interior is tastefully appointed. Although not large, the floor space is put to good use. You don’t feel crowded. Avocado green walls framed with dark wood and dimly lit to boot create a suitably intimate, “Japanese” atmosphere. The hanging noren before the kitchen and the cute little counter near the entrance, upon which are jars of beans, pickles and freshly prepared recommendations of the day, reinforces this ambience. This considered approach to the interior design benefits from the application of seasonal sprigs and dried shishito (peppers) for chopstick rests.

What of the aforementioned caveats?

Despite the generally excellent service from the floor staff, the mama-san was pushy. Extremely so. Probably well intentioned – she is both proud of her menu and well informed regarding the foods and ingredients there in – she manages, nonetheless, to raise hackles. On each of the handful of occasions I’ve visited her establishment, she was hassling us from the moment we were seated. “What will you drink?” “What will you eat?” “How many of those?” “Why not try another of these and one of those to go with it?”

The approach was utterly out of kilter with the ambience of the place and the demure service provided by other – admittedly more youthful – ladies that wait the tables. This mama seemed more suited to some grubby snack bar. No one enjoys a hard sell at dinner time.

Fancy another sweeping generalization? Here it is – despite good food, decent drinks and pleasant surroundings, I always come away thinking it’s just a little over priced.

03-5489-6350

http://r.tabelog.com/tokyo/A1303/A130301/13001146/

Orihara Shōten, Monzen-nakachō 折原商店、門前仲町

Yesterday's izakaya sanpo set off from Shinagawa station and took in Daiba (with some chilled beer out in the sunshine at dining bar Caress), the possible new Tsukiji site and a home center before landing us in Jon's manor; Monzennakacho.

While Jimmy Dean kept a place in the rapidly extending, yet patient, queue outside Uosan, Butterfly and I hopped across Eitai Dōri to explore the backstreets and alleys in the vicinity of the admittedly impressive Fukagawa Fudōdō.

Happily, we stumbled across a neat little sake shop/ standing sake bar by the name of Orihara Shōten. I should have recalled it from previous dispatches... Anyway, after dining at Uosan, we headed back there for a drink or two.

Despite the selection of cheap toys and candies at the entrance, the interior was nicely done and still had the lingering scent of fresh timber (opened for business just last month). To the left, shelves heaving with snacks, novelty tipples and the various accoutrements of the sake drinker. To the right, floor to ceiling refrigerators cooling a respectable line-up of choice sake.

We made - and paid for - our orders at the small bar and kitchen to the rear of the shop. To accompany our drinks, a variety of otsumami and sake no sakana, as well as the dreaded oden were available. While the master of the house worked the kitchen, a jolly old chap with a ready smile manned the floor with its two sturdy tables at which drinkers prop themselves.

A simple menu of recommended chilled sakes offered some old favourites and a few I don't remember trying before. Prices were reasonable for both sake (¥250~¥750) and food (¥100~¥300). I stuck with the Dassai and Denshu, and Jimmy worked through plenty of the rest.

Mostly full from our excellent fish dinner, we ordered some food out of politeness more than anything else. All we sampled was more the adequate, especially for the price. The peppered duck was really rather good.

The turnover of patrons through the course of the evening was fair. The numbers present at any one time were too, although it was never exactly heaving. Great atmosphere too, thanks in part to the friendly old chap attending to our needs.

03-5639-9447

www.oriharashoten.jp

Kanae, Shinjuku-Sanchome 鼎、新宿三丁目

For whatever reason, I tend to ignore Shinjuku-Sanchome. Not purposefully, but it just rarely crops up as a suggested venue for a gathering or quiet dinner for two. I’ve certainly strolled around, both by day (boring) and night (interesting), and have in past experienced an utterly awful dining experience (seated next to an extremely horny, boisterous gokon party) and a really great one at some basement izakaya (the name of which escapes me) specializing in sake and shochu, in the area.

As such, when Mama suggested a visit to Kanae (not to be confused with the chain-type place near Mister Donuts on Yasukuni Dori), another basement izakaya specializing in sake and seasonal cooking, I said, “sure, why not.”

Sanchome is fun. Lots of bars, clubs, hostess joints, nyuu-haafu (transvestite) bars, chain izakaya and the independent, sagging with age kind, are in abundance. Not to mention Japanese and foreign restaurants serving up all manner of wonderful looking entertainments.

Kanae is situated not far from the Isetan department store, or for the more observant, a block or so to the rear of the Peach John store (nice). It’s entered via a narrow doorway, leading down a narrow, steep flight of stairs. Inside, lots of wooden beams etc., etc., a long thin strip of a room with a counter above which the menu and specials of the day are posted on the ubiquitous strips of paper. Passing the counter area by, you enter into a fairly spacious (for a basement izakaya that is) main dining area, that is a little more modern in appearance, but to my mind felt like a 1970s café or coffee house, rather than an izakaya renowned for its sake menu.

When Jon visited back in April (remember?) he suggested that Kanae might have been around for some time. He was right. Mama, as well as often being found propping up the counter at Isukura, is also a most knowledgeable lady, especially when places to eat and drink are concerned, who also happens to do a great line in Japanese culture and history. She’s been visiting Kanae for some thirty odd years now, and remembers the days before its current popularity when it was just another of the many simple, cheap and somewhat scruffy izakaya that once could be found anywhere, and yet are now elevated to the status of holy sites by those gaijin and Japanese who have an interest in such things.

Before moving on, how about a little etymology and culture before dinner? The kanji for Kanae (鼎) is fairly curious, at least to my untrained eye. So, apart from a girls’ name, what is a “kanae?” Turns out they are the legs of a metal stand, usually set in a hibachi, upon which a yakan (kind of kettle) is set (see Mama’s diagram). Okay, shall we eat?

It was very busy, packed in fact, resulting in the service being a little short on smiles and attentiveness. We waited a little too long for the first round of chilled, frothy beers to arrive, prompting us to order the next dose upon the delivery of the first. The atmosphere pleasant – cosy and warm with a nice mix of patrons, ranging from young ladies and balding salarymen to middle-aged couples and octogenarians. The menu offers quite a range of dishes, with plenty of standards, and some more curious ones, which I’d not yet come across. The sake list, too, was decent with plenty to choose from. At this stage we kept to the beer, although Mama soon resorted to form and plunged into the shochu. Later I had some sake, the Shimeharizuru from Niigata prefecture. From what I remember it was pleasant enough, though not outstanding.

We started with kampachi sashimi, which to be honest was somewhat of a disappointment. It was rather tasteless and felt too soft. I think it was fresh, as it had not reached the watery stage, but perhaps they just blotted it for an hour or so? A bowl of roasted ginnan resting upon a bed of salt was much better. The bitter taste of the nuts complimented the beer wonderfully. A bigger serving would have been welcome, but then again it always is.

Matsutake, steamed in a crib of foil with kombu and lime, were excellent. Really pungent aroma and a strong, rich taste to match. Can’t recommend this enough. The highlight of this admittedly limited spread was the fugu karaage.  The batter was light, nicely oily without going to far, and the flesh of the fish itself moist and flaky. The knuckley bone running though the middle of each morsel came as a surprise. In the end, you more or less resort to sucking the flesh of the bone. The taste overall is quite light, brought out by the lemon juice it is at its best.

Nice place, nice atmosphere, interesting menu with a nice selection tasty dishes. Prices not too bad, but perhaps a little steep for an extended meal. Portions could be more generous. Still, looking forward to a return visit.

Tel: 03-3352-7646

Hongo, Shibuya 本郷、渋谷

Hongo looks tempting. It’s a little izakaya nestled amongst variously ugly buildings that line the banks of the “Shibuya river” (actually now little more than a concrete channel through which a couple of inches of water and scum flow) and the right hand side of Meiji Dori if you head out of Shibuya station in the direction of the intersection with Komazawa Dori and Ebisu.

Not that the neighbourhood lacks interesting looking places to dine. Dotted around are all manner of izakaya, bars and raman shops (especially on the section of Meiji Dori immediately out of the station), many of which are to be found in the most unlikely – perhaps not for Tokyo – spots. Hongo itself is right on the little bridge over the river, overshadowed by the Toyoko line and drab looking office buildings. You might pass it by without a glace during the day, but of an evening Hongo and the Hongo yakiniku-ya above it, are transformed into a vision of welcome and promised enjoyment thanks to the large glowing lantern at the entrance. Perhaps it’s the family of cats with their little homes set up near the entrance that appeals, too.

The interior is classic izakaya. Lots of dark wood, a polished counter lined with shochu bottles, shelves to the rear of the space housing sake bottles, and a large chalk board describing the recommended dishes. It must be said that over several visits these recommended items have been exactly the same each time. I’ll also point out that I’ve not always been graced with an o-toshi at Hongo. A small point, yet annoying for the inconsistency if nothing else.

The atmosphere is pretty good. Cosy, though not exactly “warm,” especially if seated by the floor to ceiling window looking out over the bamboo, cat bowls and river. Service comes with a snaggle-toothed smile courtesy of the old man charged with caring for customers and is reasonably prompt.

Patrons mainly seem to be salarymen and partners, mistresses, girlfriends and – possibly – their wives.

Despite the good range of shochu and less good range of sake on offer, I’ve stuck to beer at Hongo as my visits happened to fall in the already much missed sultry summer nights of not so long ago. I’d hazard that the sake list wouldn’t excite certain people (you know who you are). I did have the Hiroki, produce of Fukushima, which was drinkable but neither dry enough nor exciting. Price-wise the sake seems a little steep considering the volume.

As for the cooking, the one time my dining partner and I did enjoy an o-toshi it came in the form of chunky pieces of octopus sashimi, a little on the chewy side and yet pleasantly robust, if a little bland. The pickles seem a little lacklustre too. Not dynamic enough, and the vinegar, i.e., pickled, taste was weak. The usual suspects appeared; cucumber, carrot, daikon, aubergine and cabbage. The katsuo-tataki, served with grated ginger and shiso leaves, has been good overall, not too fishy, fresh and of a decent size. The seared edge never seems seared enough though.

The morsels of pork on a stick (can’t remember the name) were tasty, but hardly polished. The bed of cabbage comes in handy as it helps to pad out the meal, which is say portions aren’t large even if they aren’t painfully small. Thankfully, the sanma was much, much better. But then again, even I can turn out decent sanma so no medals awarded. Still, worth ordering.

Salad… This particular example had a kind of smoky/bacon-y flavour despite there being not a slither of bacon therein. Tomatoes, leaves, mushrooms, mayonnaise and bonito flakes did make an appearance. The first couple of mouthfuls were very enjoyable, and yet the strong smoky flavour ultimately become overbearing. The kampachi sashimi was fair-to-middling, too.

Hongo isn’t bad, I actually enjoy it quite a lot, but it’s not great either. It promises more than it delivers, mainly because the chef(s) seem intent on playing it safe. I’ll give the place points for a being a welcome change for central Shibuya, and for the cats. Take a look if you are in the area. If not pleased, drink up quick, try the yakiniku-ya upstairs and let me know what it’s like.

Tel: 03-5774-0055

Honoka, Musashi-koyama 穂のか、武蔵小山

Regrettably, I had declined the opportunity to dine at Honoka, a delightfully understated little izakaya but a minute’s stroll from the south exit of Musashi-koyama station, when the chance first presented itself. After listening to the Woodsman’s account of the visit, and pouring over both Mullers' and Poshand’s retelling of the happy tale, I jumped at the chance to take the Woodsman up on his offer to introduce me to the place. And what a place it is!

The charming aspect of the shop front immediately communicates the intent of this izakaya, being adorned with a sugidama and bedecked with wooden plaques proudly displaying the names of the sake breweries currently represented on the ample – some forty or so varieties – and detailed sake list (so detailed, in fact, as to clearly record the date upon which each bottle was opened).   

Stepping inside, one is greeted by a narrow, cosily appointed L-shaped counter at which 8-10 may be seated, at a push. Décor wise, lots of wood. Brand promise wise, lots of good sake and lots of good food. Even the service was good. Our host for the evening was particularly attentive – without being overbearing – and although he did have a little of the “oh my god! Foreigners!” about him, he proceeded to educate us with regards to each dish and morsel, to the extent of bringing out his encyclopaedia of fish in order to show us pictures of those poor creatures upon whose delicious, uncooked flesh we were to dine. While we’re talking of service, the personalised “reservation” and “thank you” notice waiting for us out our spot at the counter was a nice touch.

Before we go any further, I’ll own up now; I took notes, in particular regarding the sake, but for the life of me I can’t locate them. As such, there will follow some vague recollections and photos. For a more attentive guide to an evening’s dining pleasure at Honoka, you need do no more than click on the links cited above.

The o-toshi served up at most izakaya usually provides a good indicator of the quality that can be expected through the course of the meal. Honoka’s appetizer (a snail that wouldn’t budge, some edamame, and some other stuff) suggested a considered, somewhat refined approach to classic izakaya fare. Nothing outrageous, nor adventurous, but even the most commonplace of dishes was done well, both in terms of presentation and taste.

To accompany the various excellent sake we started off the meal-proper with a sashimi-moriawase; fresh, decent portions, interesting. The highlight among the sake was, as had been foretold, the Houou Biden, which came accompanied with a bottle of the well water from which it is crafted. Enchanting.

There followed a decent enough salad, a perfect fried pork cutlet (juicy!), and a potato fry, which was also quite wonderful. I mistakenly ordered the regular onigiri (the Woodsman had recommended the fried variety), but it was wholesome all the same.

Again, great place, great sake, great food, and a great find (well done my dears!).

Update 04/10/10: Some notes recovered; regarding the sake, the Chokaisan was rather good, while the Shirataki was way too dry. 

Tel: 03-3792-3232