Mitsuyadoseimen, Shimo-Kitazawa ミッ矢堂製麺,下北沢

Following the sad discovery of the Frisco Grill’s demise, I wandered the streets of Shimo-Kitazawa forlorn. Sure, I was pissed off that the burger I wanted to eat was beyond my reach, but I was also gagging for a beer. And that only made me think of Masako, and how cruel the world, well Japanese train operators/construction companies, can be.

Anyway, before too long I passed a tsukemen place, and as it was packed I figured it must either be really cheap, pretty good, or perhaps a bit of both. So it was that I ended up having cold noodles dipped in a soup of my choice at Mitsuya-Doseimen.

It’s a chain, something to do with the Mitsuya people that make “cider,” I guess. Simple shop, clean, wood floors and plain walls adorned with beer posters. No smoking before 5pm, plenty of old folk and families slurping their noodles. Fairly wide range of dishes on offer, but I was hungry and in no mood for deliberation. The spicy looking tan-tan goma (sesame) tsukemen looked good.

And so it was. ¥980 for a well proportioned bowl (although the price is set, you can opt for a small, medium or large portion) of cold, firm, slightly flat noodles topped with onion and some kind of leaf. This was accompanied by a bowl of orange, spicy Thai tan-tan-like soup, laced with good clean bits of chicken. It was just spicy enough to please, without overpowering the taste of the noodles themselves. Beer was overpriced.

I don’t know much about noodles, certainly not as much as this Cowboy, but I came away full and happy, despite having worn a paper bib…

Tel: 03-5790-8038

Frisco Charcoal Grill, Shimo-Kitazawa 下北沢

Frisco Charcoal Grill was a wonderful little hole in the wall burger joint in Shimo-Kitazawa. A friend introduced me to the Frisco Grill, enticing me with tales of freshly made, lovingly crafted burgers and an interesting chef. His description was spot on.

Almost impossible to locate unless you were in the know, the Frisco Grill was hidden away at the end of a narrow alley loomed over by dilapidated buildings, its entrance unassuming. The tiny interior too – white walls, black stools and a basic kitchen dominated by a large grill – was unassuming too. The only real decoration were a few framed photos of San Francisco scenes, and newspaper cuttings and reviews about the shop, such was its fame.

The story behind the place was simple yet charming, very much like the menu. The owner-chef, “Mike” had spent around 40 years in the U.S. working in sales. Finally, once his kids had been put through college, he decided to return to Japan and fulfil his dream – to open a burger bar serving good to honest “real” American burgers. I don’t know if they were exactly like “real” American burgers, but they were very good. Apparently, “Mike” scoured the land for a bakery that could make bread rolls (buns, baps, cobs, whatever you choose to call them…) to his liking, and had fresh Australian beef delivered from which he made the burgers. He made a set amount each day, and when all sold, he shut up shop.

The Frisco Grill was tiny; probably no more than seven or eight diners could be accommodated at any one time. The menu was very simple, a few options of toppings – lettuce, cheese, gherkins, tomato, onion, mustard etc, etc. – and stacks of pates, and some lunch sets providing variations on the basic burger together with crinkle cut fries and a soft drink. Draft beer was available too. Certainly the choice on offer was severely limited when compared to the plethora of exciting, even outlandish, variations on the burger between bread that places such as Giggle provide. But that was the point, or so I like to believe.

The bread tasted fresh and bready. Not dry, and robust enough so as not to become floppy once encasing a perfectly grilled, meaty burger. Neither too thin nor too thick the meat itself was free of gristle or otherwise unidentifiable chewy bits, and tasted like real food. Not processed, frozen or warmed up from the day before. The lettuce, tomato and cheese were standard, but again fresh. Nothing more or less than they should be. The fries, crisp, not oily and actually surprisingly potatoey were rather good too. I’ll say it again; really simple, really fresh, really well made and really, really tasty.

So it was that when I headed there for lunch today I was dismayed to find the Frisco Grill is no more. At first I though I’d got the wrong street, maybe the wrong alley. A walked around a little, checked, asked a gypsy woman. Eventually plucking up courage, I headed down the alley, and sure enough could see the shop sign peeping from behind the plywood nailed over the entrance. Just as friends, lovers, even spouses, come and go, so too do great eateries. The Frisco Charcoal Grill is no more. Just like dear Masako, another Shimo-Kita gem is lost.

A little glum, I had no choice but to lunch elsewhere and so ended up sucking cold noodles at Mitsuya-Douseimen, before returning home. Once safely plugged back into my Mac, the Google pixies provided me with news, from this gentleman here, that the Frisco Grill closed just last month, as the building in which it was concealed is to be demolished, but will (happily) arise phoenix like once again. Certainly hope so.

Tel: 03-3468-5744

Masako, Shimo-Kitazawa マサコ、下北沢

The history of jazz in Japan is a long and interesting one. Its presence firmly entrenched. As one close friend and frequent visitor to Japan declared, “I hate jazz. But, Tokyo is jazz.” Certainly I hear more jazz, in bars, cafés, shops, restaurants, izakaya and lifts, here than I ever did in my native England. Seemingly ubiquitous, the jazz in Japan does, like so much here, have its proper place. The place to enjoy jazz was, before upmarket clubs such as Blue Note or The Cotton Club came on the scene, the jazu-kissa, or jazz-Café. Luckily, such establishments can still be found tucked away here and there throughout Tokyo. Admittedly many have seen better days, yet there remain a few gems.

The story of Tokyo's jazu-kissa is a proud one, beginning in 1929 with the Blackbird opposite Tokyo University, having weathered political and ideological storms, when jazz was warred upon by conservatives and the nationalist military regime, as well as being a cradle and inspiration for counter-culture and student radicalism in the 1960s. Of the hundreds of jazu-kissa that sprung up throughout Tokyo, and the Japanese archipelago in general, many, sadly, succumbed to the tides of time and changing tastes. Economic pressures as Tokyo rents rocketed through the heady ‘bubble’ years, and then again after its collapse and the dire straits that afflicted most Japanese businesses during the ‘lost decade’ of the 1990s, also too their toll. So too did the rise of chains such as Starbucks. When, in 2007, the final curtain fell upon the seventy-three year reign of Yokohama’s venerated Chigusa it was left to other long enduring jazu-kissa, such as Shimo-Kitazawa’s Masako, to carry the torch.

Tucked away on the corner of a side street off the main shōtengai (shopping street) leading away from the south exit of the station, just past the yakitori-ya Bunbuku, Masako’s unassuming, eccentrically decorated entrance belies the near religious experience that awaits within. As far as jazz cafes go, Masako is near perfect. The sign above the porch declares that Masako has been serving up jazz and coffee since 1953. Certainly the place is showing its age. No post-modern avant-garde Tokyoite pretentions here, just the frayed grandeur, reminiscent of the many second-hand and antique stores in the neighbourhood, and quiet surety of an establishment that has long survived by its own merits and the loyalty of customers who value its unique character, cozy atmosphere and quality music. Like all true jazu-kissa Masako’s interior is dark. Walls and ceiling stained black, by both varnish and a half-century of nicotine, adorned with oil paintings and yellowing photographs of great jazz artists and the departed mistress of the house, Masako-san, herself. Indeed, upon stepping through the front door one is immediately greeted by a painting of the smiling Masako-san with Mal Waldron.

Rope-bound wooden pillars support the low ceiling with its stained, yellowing concert posters and a ragtag assortment of low benches, chairs, sagging leather couch and tables draped in red plastic tablecloths are arranged before the two enormous Model 43438 Studio Monitor speakers that dominate the rear of the café. Various photos, ornaments and dried flowers sit atop the speakers. To the right of the room bookshelves heave with jazz magazines such as Swing Journal and Jazz Review (in Japanese, naturally) and manga for the enjoyment of customers and a large, old space heater stands erect, waiting to provide warmth to the old building in the winter months. All around the room the dark varnished wooden walls have glowing patches of rich orange-brown worn from years of customers’ backs rubbing against them. Curtains of wooden beads, hanging from the central beams dividing the room, click with the movement of the air. Aged crimson carpet tiles curl up at their corners, while ancient, blackened fans and electric heaters hang from walls and ceiling.

Small, felt-tip written menus plastered around the room offer a selection of soft drinks, the signature lemon flavoured water, hot chocolate, tea, coffee – foul, as jazu-kissa coffee traditionally is – and alcohol. Here the selection is limited, with only a few brands of over-priced whisky, bottles of chilled Asahi beer and a few gin-based drinks. At ¥650 for a large bottle of Asahi beer Masako is one of the better value jazz establishments I have tried. Light snacks such as the delicious Jam toast – slices as thick as an encyclopedia – and the ubiquitous Japanese mix tōsuto sando (toasted salad sandwich) are served at any time of day or night. Service, provided by a team of young ladies, is always prompt and polite. Signs on the wall politely request that customers visiting for more than two hours order a second time…

Since Masako-san’s passing, in the mid-1980s, the kindly

countenance of Fukushima-san, the current master of the house, has greeted patrons old and new. The loyal following that frequent the place do so to enjoy the relaxed, private atmosphere and superlative collection of over two-thousand vinyl records and CDs while either being lost in quiet contemplation of the music swelling in their ears or otherwise being engrossed in a good book or hushed conversation with friends. Not only are the usual chain smoking, solitary, male jazz aficionados with their bowed heads in attendance, but also contemporary music lovers, couples, pensioners and Fukushima-san’s pet monkey, Mon-chan, make a regular appearance. The record collection covers decades, ranging from swing and albums from the 1950s and 60s to Motown, Blues and Fusion.

The sleeve of whichever CD or record is currently playing is displayed in the window of the booth housing the stereo system, enabling the uninitiated to know what it is they are listening to. Indeed, my own faltering steps, moleskin notebook in hand, are being led in this way. Requests are accepted if they can find it in the collection. The experience to be had at Masako is, in terms of a jazu-kissa pilgrimage, near perfect. Like stepping back in time, the Tokyo of bygone decades lives on while the music, now lively now quite, spans styles and artists seemingly infinite in their variety. Open for business every day of the week between 12 noon and 11pm, Masako tends to be busy in the late afternoon. Weekends can be packed, and very, very smoky. Much of the seating is narrow, often resulting in rather intimate encounters when busy, and as such large groups may struggle to be accommodated.

In all, Masako is a truly wonderful jazz café. Quirky, refined (musically), charming. The atmosphere of the place makes up for the coffee’s lack of quality. One can unwittingly while away an entire afternoon, wrapped in the soft hiss and crackle of old vinyl, eventually stepping out of the smoky warm to find the streets benighted. The pleasures on offer at Masako will, sadly, be available for only a little while longer. On September 23 of this year (2009) her fifty-six year reign will end. The café will close for the last time, and then the bulldozers will flatten the old building to make way for a new train station.

Visit while you still can.

Tel: 03-3410-7994

Web: http://bit.respace.jp/jazz-masako/index.html

Tsuge, Shimo-Kitazawa 都夏、下北沢

An eight minute stroll down the crowded shōtengai on the south side of Shimo-Kitazawa station, opposite the post office, Tsuge is yet another izakaya belonging to the Jackpot group. Jackpot izakaya on the whole offer decent food, service and surroundings at affordable prices meaning that they are usually heaving with customers. Tsuge is no exception. As is often the case, I had seen this particular izakaya several times while on route to other eateries in the vicinity and impressed by its welcoming, busy appearance had made a mental note to pay a visit. On a Tuesday evening during which the heavens unleashed a hellish downpour my dining partner and I decided that the foul weather might just enable us to secure a table.

Tsuge’s façade and interior is pleasingly unpretentious. Reminiscent of simpler, rural Shōwa era izakaya, pale plaster walls, heavy wooden beams and lines of shōchu and sake bottles create a welcoming relaxed atmosphere. Of particular interest was that Tsuge has two entrances and two counters before open kitchens on left and right, the room divided by an interior wall so as to create a kind of U-shape dining area. Finding the place thankfully uncrowded, yet still busy considering the inclement weather, we handed our dripping umbrellas to a waiter and settled into a counter seat on the left of the shop near the entrance. Fortuitously close to a group of young ladies, dining upon a small raised tatami platform, one of who was conspicuously attractive, I also had a good view of the kitchen and the sodden street outside.

While Paul McCartney sang Live and Let Die in the background I ordered a tall glass of chilled Ichinokura, a sake that although not exceptional never fails to hit the spot, and marveled at the chirruping voices of insects. At this point my dining partner pointed around the room at many small plastic tanks filled with earth and twigs upon which little suzu-mushi (crickets) took their ease. Their song provided a lovely summery atmosphere, which set against the spattering rain and dripping gutters outside was like something out of jidai geki (historical drama.) A little surprised at the absence of an appetizer we scanned the menu; an impressively wide selection of fish, salads, kushi-yaki, vegetables, chicken and tofu dishes, all at reasonable prices. Another Ichinokura aided in my decision-making, and the meal soon commenced with an oshinko moriawase of pickled nasu (aubergine), takuan (yellow pickled radish), ginger, takana (leaf mustard) and some other, to me unknown, species of pickle. All were tasty, and notable for their subdued natural colouring. None of the all too usual colourings added. The subtle flavour suggested they were, perhaps, prepared in the Kyō (Kyoto) style. The nasu is best eaten quickly as it soon began to whither in the heat.

Next came an enormous kaisen sarada (seafood salad) in an oval dish, at least 40cm in length, piled with lettuce, daikon, and large pieces of raw maguro (tuna), aji (jack), tai (sea bream), hotake (?) and ebi (shrimp) in a simple dressing. Big, simple, tasty – this no frills salad could have fed four. As we enjoyed this a similarly sizable bowl of steaming daikon haita arami (stewed tuna and daikon) arrived, the fish topped with fresh mizuna (potherb mustard.) The pieces of daikon were large and soft, the stew itself rich tasting, owing to the tuna, which was in turn also delicious although rather bony. Having said that, the meat flaked away from the bones easily enough, although I found the effort to avoid the bones tried my patience somewhat. As the seats began to fill up the atmosphere became livelier, and in celebration McCartney retired to be replaced by Jim Morrison and Roadhouse Blues. A plate of lightly steamed o-yasai (vegetables) consisting of perfectly crunchy, natural looking mange tout, carrots, cauliflower, renkon (lotus root), broccoli, corn-on-the-cob and daikon with a dipping bowl filled with ponzu sauce was also delicious, large and provided ballast.

Almost full, I then opted for a large nigō tokuri of Ginban, a sake from Toyama, which came served in a tall, fluted tokuri set in a wooden bucket filled with ice. A rather unsophisticated taste, but drinkable all the same, at 1,100 yen it was certainly good value. We finished off the meal with eight slices of succulent momoniku yuzu goshō (charcoal-grilled chicken off the thigh with citrus and black pepper paste), served with “ice plant” a strange looking thing that naturally contains a lot of salt. I remain undecided as to whether I enjoyed this and indeed asked the chef if it really was intended for human consumption.

Sipping cups of hot tea, we agreed that all of the food and drink was tasty, if a little unrefined, large and extremely good value. The bill came to just a little over 3,000 yen per person. The service had been prompt and friendly, the surroundings comfortable, and the atmosphere relaxing. The menu offered plenty to choose from. No wonder Tsuge is always packed. Certainly recommended, but perhaps best to book ahead on weekends.

Tel: 03-3410-8237

Web: www.jack-pot.co.jp

Totoshigure, Shimo-Kitazawa ととしぐれ、下北沢

Part of the SubLime group of izakaya, Totoshigure is another fine addition to the Shimo-Kitazawa dining scene, some eight minutes stroll down the full length of the main shopping street out of the south exit of the station. Totoshigure is instantly recognizable for its long shop front covered in hanging blue noren, barrels displaying food and small bench like tables at which patrons may dine, more or less in the street. This izakaya had caught my attention several weeks ago due to the interesting façade.

The entrance, hidden behind the noren, is a low – one must practically crouch to pass through – sliding wooden door that leads into a narrow stone genkan (entrance hall) before a long raised floor of wood upon which low level tables are set. Dotted around this dining area are more open barrels displaying vegetables, creating an inviting wholesome look to the place. Lighting is low-key, with the main illumination centred upon the counter and open kitchen to the left of the room and a second, smaller, counter and bar to the right. The bar itself seems suited to a nightclub rather than an izakaya, but a little modernity never hurts I suppose. Pale plaster walls decorated with prints of fish, a decidedly “industrial” looking ceiling and the busy kitchen of stainless steel before which, above the counter, are arranged fish, vegetables and other food stuffs on ice, all add to the atmosphere. This atmosphere was somewhat let down, however, by the dance music playing in the background. Well staffed, there indeed seemed so many waiting staff that they at times seemed at a loss for something to do, the service if friendly and efficient. Indeed, at one point, I had barely picked up the sake menu before a girl was at my side trying to take my order. A little over eager, perhaps?

As usual, once initial beers and other drinks were served we began to order from the menu in earnest, there being a good selection of delicious sounding dishes on offer, with the focus being on fish and other seafood. Beginning with an appetizer of large, chunky slices of cucumber with a mayonnaise dip, we then enjoyed the maguro matsuri (tuna festival), a moriawase of different maguro sashimi – ōtoro, chūtoro, akami – pleasantly presented upon sliced daikon, carrot and fresh green shiso (perilla) leaves, with wasabi, salt and finely-chopped spring onion to the side. The slices of fish themselves were of a decent size and all were fresh, rather than having the slightly iced, “recently out of the freezer,” texture that is all too prevalent in many izakaya. This was swiftly followed by yet more tuna, the maguro tataki, raw, mashed and mixed with spring onion, carrot and wasabi. Simple. Delicious.

Moving on from tuna, the tempura of Yanaka shōga (ginger plant) was tasty, the tempura batter light, and the flavour of the ginger being nicely complimented by the dipping salt. On the whole though, the plant itself was rather stringy, resulting in those of us around the table spending much of the rest of the evening trying to discreetly pick it from our teeth. A delicious, moist, salad followed containing egg, fish, leaves and an assortment of vegetables, although I was by this time absorbed with the sake menu rather than remembering to take detailed notes on the constitution of said salad. The selection of sake is somewhat limited, there being eight on offer, although favourites such as Kubota, Hakkaisan and Masumi are all present and reasonably priced. Served in a phallic bamboo tube nestled in a bamboo ice bucket, the Yoshidakura proved to be a dry and thoroughly drinkable sake. So much so that another was duly requested.

Returning to the food menu, the hotate (scallopps) in oyster sauce, a steaming, Chinese tasting dish full of red and yellow peppers, mange tout and onions provided a richer taste. This was balanced with a simple nebā-nebā salad comprised of large pieces of tofu buried under assorted leaves, lettuce, tomato and white tororo (grated yam). Another bamboo phallus, this time brimming with Masumi, arrived and needing a rest from eating we took our time before ordering further, enjoying the company and atmosphere. Although, as mentioned above, the service was highly efficient and maybe over keen, not once did we feel pressured to hurry through our meals. The staff seemed happy to let us take our time and relax. As the evening wore on, the mood of the place became warmer, and a bit noisier. Although not packed, a fair number of seats were filled, the customers ranging from young couples, groups of students busy with drinking games and adolescent flirtations, to pairs of middle-aged ladies enjoying shōchū and conversation at the counter. On the night we visited, the majority of patrons seemed to be women.

Once again in need of food to combat the sake coursing through my veins I convinced my dining partners of the need to sample more of the menu. Slightly spicy satsuma-age with dipping sauce, tempura of seasonal vegetables and baby squid, and the wonderful anago to omame maze gohan, a bamboo basket filled with steaming rice mixed with eels and mange tout provided ballast. Out of sheer greed I then had deep fried camembert cheese... Needing something sweet, we rounded off the evening with a desert of ichigo chīzu dōfu (strawberry-cheese tofu) that, all agreed, was delicious.

Throughout the meal, each dish was fresh, tasty, and of a good size. All were well presented on a nice selection of “wabi-sabi modern” tableware. Prices were very reasonable, especially considering the excellent portions. Good service, pleasant surroundings and an interesting menu make Totoshigure well worth a visit. Keep in mind, however, that the specialty of the house is fish, and meat does not feature in the menu at all.

Tel: 03-3419-6125

Uokisuisan, Shimo-Kitazawa 魚㐂水産、下北沢

My dining partners arriving later than expected due to heavy workloads – the more people that lose their jobs the more the remaining employees of Japanese companies have to work it seems – we finally emerged from the smoky warmth of Masako, our appointed meeting place, to find Shimo-Kitazawa particularly crowded, even for a Friday evening, with its bars, izakaya and streets heaving with newly employed salarymen and university freshman newly inducted into various groups and circles (April being the traditional season for hiring and school intake.) Despite the weather having changed for the worst, cold night air and the smell of rain, the throngs of excited youths and inebriated corporate warriors gave the main street from the station’s south exit an almost carnival atmosphere. Fun as it was we had little hope of finding room at any of the town’s inns.

Heading straight down the main thoroughfare past the busier chain-izakaya and the sickly stench of the donna-kebab shop (why the Japanese are allowing themselves to be beguiled by such “food” is beyond me) the crowds eventually thinned out leaving us to stroll at leisure and view various bars and izakaya bursting at the seams with happy, and enviably warm, customers. In the vicinity were a good handful of establishments I had not yet tried and one in particular, recognisable for its broad façade covered with hanging blue noren, seemed interesting enough for us to venture through the low door only to find the place full as it had been hired for a corporate party. Shame, as from the brief glimpse I had of the interior it looked wonderful. Cold and now feeling very hungry we opted for a brand new izakaya, Uokisuisan, neighbouring our first choice.

I had actually spotted this izakaya a few weeks ago when it was under construction, and then again when the street before it was adorned with a veritable forest of flower arrangements and bottles of sake given as gifts and tokens of good wishes to the new business. The shop front is rather modern looking and seemed to promise a contemporary dining experience. Stepping in we found a fairly small dining area with a beautifully lit open kitchen framed by a counter of pale wood along the right of the room. On the left were tables crowded with gas burners for nabe, hot pot, and piles of bowls and small dishes. Receiving a warm welcome from the master’s, Suga-san, young wife we were seated at the only available table. This, unfortunately, was directly in front of the door and as such was chilly and freezing whenever the door opened. In winter this is going to be a real problem, there being no genkan (hall) separating the main room from the door onto the street. In fairness we were offered blankets to cover our laps. Such attention to our comfort was a sign of the service to come.

Mrs. Suga supplied us with hot towels and menus before proceeding to explain that the first drinks of the evening were to be complimentary, and that we could select whatever we wished from the menu except champagne (a strange addition to the usual muster of izakaya beverages.) Having already spent the day guzzling beer elsewhere, I opted to begin dinner with a glass of Hakkaisan sake to accompany the otsumami (appetizer), of ebi-dango (shrimp dumpling) and spinach. The table was a little too crowded with all the various bowls, dishes, condiment pots and the gas burner, but as soon as the staff had been told that we would not be ordering nabe all the clutter was swiftly removed. The menu was interesting, several of the dishes prompting us to ask for an explanation, fish being the shop’s speciality. Having ordered we took in our surroundings.

As mentioned above, Uokisuisan is new having opened for business but two weeks ago. It shows in the interior decoration. Fairly minimal but with a contemporary kitchen complete with gleaming tiles and stainless steel and the stacks of tableware lined up above the kitchen under lit to produce a pleasing ambience. This atmosphere is let down, however, by the overly bright lighting above the dining area, and by the tables and chairs themselves that appear not to be new. The counter, too, is rather uninspired looking like a panel of Ikea bookshelf rather than the rough wood so often encountered (no pun intended) in izakaya. In general the décor is well considered although dimmer lighting so as to create a cosier atmosphere and accentuate the subtle lighting and design of the kitchen would most certainly enhance the feel of the place. Although I did not take a look, the second floor apparently has koshitsu (private rooms).

Such small gripes aside, the food itself was enjoyable. A fairly large kaisen (seafood) salad of chunky chopped tomatoes, lettuce, cucumber, egg-roll, crab meat and roe started off the meal along with perfectly fresh isaki (grunt) sashimi. A similarly chunky (dainamikku = dynamic) plate of crunchy pickled cucumber and asazuke soon followed. The speckled grey goma-dōfu (sesame tofu) topped with spring onions, which arrived as a delightful half sphere, is highly recommended. Two good-sized grilled squid stuffed with squid guts followed. Although the squid itself was delicious (maybe a little too tough…) the taste of the raw innards was too strong for my taste. And then the service kicked in.

Having noticed my taste for sake, and ‘rare’ ability to eat raw fish, Suga-san, his wife and mother proceeded to join us in conversation and supply us with vast quantities of free drinks. Their talk was friendly and not at all reserved. Indeed Suga-san explained that they wished to create a relaxed family atmosphere for their customers in which formal modes of speech could be ignored and a fun time enjoyed by patrons and staff together. Being a sake lover himself, Suga-san proceeded to introduce us to some of his favourites. From Yamagata prefecture was the deliciously smooth, almost honey-like, taste of Dewazakura, and the strong tasting rougher feel of the Koshi no Kagetora from Niigata. As the alcohol began to make its effects felt we needed to eat a little more. Enquiring as to what rice-based dishes were available we were recommended to try the niyanko-meshi, a bowl of steaming rice into which we mixed a raw egg and oyster sauce before sprinkling freshly grate katsuo (bonito flakes) that Suga-san graciously allowed us to grate ourselves. The taste of the fresh katsuo was nothing short of divine when combined with the egg and rice. Perfect. A small helping of bitter tasting fuki mixed with miso paste was served along with yet more free sake such as the wonderful Isomatsu, a namazake (live sake) from Kagawa prefecture and the somewhat less refined Haneya from Toyama.

All had an enjoyable evening, due not only to the lavish attention and complimentary food and drink offered by Suga-san and his family but also thanks to the care and attention they are obviously putting into the food they serve and the atmosphere they are trying to create. Prices are very reasonable, the menu interesting and the dishes not only well presented but delicious too. The service was extremely friendly, though some may feel it is a little too familiar. Plainly all of this results from a family trying hard to make a success of a new business venture. If the Sugas can maintain their enthusiasm and hospitality they have every chance of creating a successful izakaya and many happy customers. I only hope they dim the lights a little so as to make the dining area a bit cosier.

No sooner had we stepped out into the rain, not a little drunk and with full bellies, than Suga-san’s mother sent a waitress scurrying across the road to purchase umbrellas for us. Excellent service.

Tel: 03-5432-4488

Bunbuku, Shimo-Kitazawa 分福、下北沢

There is much to like in Bunbuku, a small yakitori-ya, part of the Jackpot Planning group, less than a minutes stroll from the south exit of Shimo-Kitazawa station. Suitably unassuming while reassuringly ‘Japanese’ the shop front displays paper lanterns, hand-painted signs and menus, and that manufactured run-down appearance that promises good food and cold beer at reasonable prices.

That is not to say that Bunbuku is without faults. The selection of sake on offer is pitifully limited, although shōchu is better represented, and while the atmosphere of the ground floor with its narrow counter and kitchen is enjoyable the first floor (the second to Japanese minds, of course) feels a little sparse. An afterthought. This need not be the case as the building, providing a vaulted ceiling and bare wooden beams, potentially has scope for a more interesting interior. Despite these points, two pleasant evenings have been enjoyed at Bunbuku, with my dining partners and I each time being impressed with quality, and value, of the food served.

I had noticed the shop numerous times while passing by on my way to the station, each time being impressed by the lively throng of customers and sounds of kitchen and staff. Eventually taking the time to try the place, it lived up to expectations, thanks not only to the great food but also to the friendly service provided by staff that obviously take pride in their work and the service they provide. Always friendly and prompt, without rushing diners, the staff are attentive. I wish they were more familiar with the details of their menu, but this is a small point.

The menu is simple, being illustrated by occasional photographs. Ordering beer, the wonderfully crunchy, colourful o-shinko moriawase – assorted pickles of daikon, aubergine, cabbage and ginger – and the deliciously hot and sour kimuchi, we took our time in choosing from the selection of yakitori – grilled chicken morsels on small wooden skewers – and other interesting offerings such as the skewer of tuna and leek covered in miso, which had a wonderful, almost citrus, sweet taste.  Always keen to make at least a nod in the direction of health eating we selected the cabbage salad; a bowl of raw cabbage generously doused with a ponzu sauce.  Not overly large we gratefully accepted a refill (not an option generally offered). In order to try a bit of everything this was accompanied by a moriawase consisting of ten different skewers and the delightfully tender, chunky chicken liver, which was cooked to perfection, being neither too bloody nor too dry. Highlights were the momo – leg meat – and sasami – white meat (breast?) – smothered in rather too much wasabi. All were thoroughly delicious, prompting us to make a second order of our favourite individual skewers. This led to the revelation that the size of the skewers in the moriawase are considerably smaller than those ordered individually. Be advised.  

Tiring of beer, I switched to sake, the Bunbuku junmai being recommended. The ni-go, two portion, tokkuri – sake jug – was nothing short of enormous, and the Bunbuku junmai itself was not bad at all, but certainly nothing spectacular. This enjoyable meal was brought to its conclusion with a final order of nankotsu and tsukune – cartilage and chicken mince – in a plum sauce.

Bunbuku is almost everything a good yakitori-ya should be. Cheap, three dining cost a little under 8,000 yen, simple and delicious. Indeed, the freshness, portions, and taste were all excellent. None were over cooked and, as mentioned above, the liver was not undercooked either. Friendly service and a lively atmosphere created by patrons, young and old, enjoying their meals add up to an experience which is not only enjoyable but also excellent value for money. Recommended.

Update 28/9/09: Bunbuku has undergone some of the transformation. Interior somewhat improved, new menus printed on cheap paper & plastic fans and yakitori no longer on offer. A selection of tasty, well proportioned, kushiyaki is now the mainstay of this izakaya. 

Tel: 03-3410-5260