Tachikichi Gyōza, Shibuya 立吉餃子、渋谷

The gyōza at Tachikichi Gyōza are fantastic. Hefty, juicy and delicious, whether boiled or fried. Certainly in a different league than the rather paltry dumplings served at the immensely popular Harajuku Gyōza Ryō.

Tachikichi’s gyōza differ from the norm by not having garlic in the meat mix. This allows the flavour of the pork to come through. For those, like me, who love the taste of garlic, quite excellent garlic gyōza are available. The gyōza skins have a thicker more succulent feel than usual, akin to Chinese dumplings.

Prices are good – about ¥100 a piece, with discounts when ordering in sets of five or ten. A range of other simple izakaya classics are available although apart from the cabbage and shio kombu salad I’ve yet to sample them. Beer at ¥390 isn’t bad, but the glasses are small.

Friendly staff and customers – a nice mix of young and old, male and female, smart and scruffy – make for a relaxed, cozy atmosphere at this hole in the wall eatery.

Funky decoration and ornaments add some flavour to an otherwise plain interior.

The location works well, too; on Meiji Dori, just a few minutes from the east exit of Shibuya station over the pedestrian bridge.

The open front allows for a spot of people watching while quaffing beers and tucking into the tasty dumplings. Perfect for lunch, a light dinner or just a beer-break on your way to the station.

Update 17/10/11: A recent visit at lunch time revealed the lunch sets to be of excellent value. Three gyoza, along with some kimuchi, leaf salad topped with potato salad, soup and finished off with sweet tofu desert. 

My dining parnter ordered a plate of ten gyoza as an extra, only to find his eyes were bigger than his belly. 

Furthermore, a recent attempted visit revealed that Tachikichi is closed for refurbishment. From the glimpse I caught, the planks of wood clamped to metal frames that once served as tables are being replaced with purpose built furnishings. Great to see the place doing well enough to be more permanantly fitted out. Just hope none of the charm of the place is diminished in the process! 

UPDATE 26/10/11: Revamped and renamed "Kitchen Tachikichi," the interior fittings are better, the wall mounted counter-tops, especially, much improved. The playfully kitch deocrations are sadly no more, and with them much of the atmposphere has disapeared, too. In all fairness, Kitchen Tachikichi now feels like a blank canvas, perhaps more a work in progress. With luck, the young masters will add some of the old sparkle atop the new lick of paint.   

But - Honolulu starbright - the food remains the same.

03-3486-1269

http://www.tachikichi.net/index.html

Cafe & Bar Square Hedges, Nakameguro スクエアヘッジズ、中目黒

Nakameguro has plenty to offer – ever the more so as its gentrification proceeds. As such, Café & Bar Square Hedges has its work cut out for it. How to differentiate from the many other fashionably artsy, left of center café-bar and arts spaces?

The location, three blocks left and three blocks up from the bridge over the Meguro River if you head straight over the road out of Nakameguro station, provides a chance to stroll through rarely visited Kamimeguro back streets.  The café itself, all pale blue walls, white wood and airy ceilings brings to mind a beach house. As much Devon as it is Tokyo.

The shop front, dominated by a large window, provides a lush green view by summer, and by spring a little known cherry blossom-viewing site. Spread across two floors, by day the first floor offers a relaxed, comfortable and thankfully unpretentious lunch venue amidst an eclectic mix of knick-knacks, framed by a breezy bar and made welcoming by the affable attentions of the lady of the house, Ms. Nawata. By night the second floor is opened, offering a more bar-like experience, as well as a space for parties, events and exhibitions.

The menu offers simple, home-cooked dishes covering Asian Fusion, Brunch, Mexican, Sandwiches and Vegetarian categories. The lunch sets, all coming in at under ¥900, offer particular value, being comprised of salad, soup, hot or cold drink, rice and main dish. 

My dining partners and I settled on the Gappao, Red curry and Avocado salad (which, due to soaring lettuce prices thanks to recent typhoons, hot weather and radiation, was based on cabbage, as most salads seem to be of late). All were fresh, tasty and filling.

03-5489-8683

http://www.facebook.com/cafe.squarehedges?sk=info

Hacienda del Cielo, Daikanyama アシエンダデルシエロ、代官山

Most would agree that despite all the Michelin Stars and profusion of first rate foreign cuisine available to Tokyo diners Mexican food never fails to disappoint – the risible Salsa Cabana being a case in point. Whether it be the real deal or Tex-Mex, it’s always said to be better somewhere else. 

Confident in its lofty perch, providing stunning views of the city from Odaiba to Shinjuku and beyond, Daikanyama’s Hacienda del Cielo goes some way to redressing the Mexican dining deficit.

Great location, awesome rooftop views from the dining area and standing bar, along with a funky interior and incredibly helpful service provided in Japanese or English, smile free of charge, all help to make a visit an enjoyable experience.

The menu covers a range of Mexican standards, as well as Tex-Mex classics, supported by a good range of cocktails and utterly lethal Margaritas. These, especially when served by the pitcher can be enough to put even the most stalwart food blogger under the table – after, that is, spending some time touching clammy cheek to porcelain…

Food and drinks are well-sized and reasonably priced. Clientele suitably attractive, consisting of a nice sprinkling of old-timers and bright young things.

Food bloggers' bane – underestimate at your peril.

Chunky vegetable salad of broccoli, mushroom and peppers.

Rabbit food…

Sausages with chili con carne – better than the usual Japanese wiener at any rate. 

Guacamole Fresco – delicious, surprisingly filling. The fresh avocado, which you choose personally, adds a nice touch.

Cecina – semi-dried beef jerky. Delicious, reason enough to visit. Best to order twice.

Nachos – needlessly ordered.

Chicken Fajitas – the corn fajitas are popular, if a little small. Chicken good, but a little heavy on the fried onions.

Shrimp and Avocado salad – does what it says on the tin.

Good value, decent if unrefined food and fun surroundings. Rooftop dining area outside is the main attraction.

03-5457-1521

http://modern-mexicano.jp/hacienda/#

Katoriya, Jiyugaoka かとりや、自由が丘

Frothy, ice-cold beer; festivals; yukata; cockroaches and bikini-clad pertness on crowded Enoshima beaches – the ingredients that make for a Japanese summer. I tend to associate yakitori with summer, too. 

Thus engorged, I’ve recently been sating my summer appetites at Jiyugaoka’s Katoriya – a no nonsense proletarian yakitori-ya that’s been churning out lovingly charcoal-grilled morsels on skewers since 1963 – located just over the street from the surpisingly charming Bettako, just a minute or so from The north exit of the station.

@izakayasanpo assures me Katoriya was once much less attractive than is now the case. By all accounts it’s now a lot more hygienic than it used to be, too.

Not large, the simple vanilla counter is always – always – jam-packed. Usual form is to arrive and crowd around the edge of the room drinking and munching on eda-mame while waiting for a seat at the encounter to be vacated. Not recommended for large parties, generally, although we’ve managed to seat groups of 5-6 on occasion. Such rare occasions were thanks to the gracious attentions of the Mama of the house. 

Dishes are simple. No surprises should be expected. As well as the yakitori and associated grilled veggies, a handful of offal-based abominations are available to those so inclined. Budget prices, jovial company and relentlessly strong shochu-based drinks make for an enjoyable dining experience. Focusing on the food alone, this is not a patch on Kushiwakamaru, but that shouldn’t deter you from visiting. It’s all good.

Cucumber with beans.

Grilled mushrooms to be dipped in VERY hot mustard or spicy sauce.

Katoriya-zuke – pig stomach in spicy miso sauce.

Chicken liver – a little dry, not nearly big enough.

Chicken sasami with wasabi paste.

Tomato wrapped in bacon – delicious but a pale shadow of Kushiwakamaru’s take on the dish. 

Fried tofu topped with bonito flakes, accompanied by grated ginger and soy sauce.

Nankotsu – chicken cartilage, but actually not too bad.

Bacon wrapped asparagus (and the tomato-maki again). 

Sliced tomato and mayonnaise – this place is not big on salads.

Grilled green peppers – unsullied but salt or pepper.

Eda-mame.

Garlic and mushrooms – nice. 

Tebasaki – chicken wings.

Tofu – dull.

Get there early, secure a stool and enjoy. 

03-3718-5505

Yodakinbo, Nakameguro よだきんぼ、中目黒

Few would deny that Nakameguro is one of Tokyo’s most popular locales, whether in terms of desirability as a place to live or seek an evening repast. Not that this was always the case. Certainly it wasn’t as fashionable, or expensive for that matter. As the Woodsman points out, back in the 90s (that’s 1990s not 1890s), when he had the honour of calling the place home it was a far more down to earth, working class neighbourhood that had yet to be encroached upon by the monied hipsters of neighbouring Daikanyama.

Still, Nakameguro is still host to a wonderful array of places at which to drink and eat, ranging from the down and dirty to higher-end dining experiences. Any town famed for its yakitori and which harbours such delights as Akira, Kushiwakamaru, Nakamenoteppen or the hugely entertaining Junkadelic deserves some attention and, no doubt, at least a little of your coin.

Yodakinbo, located just a few doors up from Junkadelic about a ten minute leisurely stroll from the station, isn’t exactly a yakitori-ya, it's a jidori-ya specialising in the chicken dishes of Miyazaki. Chicken, shochu and little else, as amply demonstrated by their woefully inadequate supplies of beer…

I visited aeons ago, so the details are more than a little hazy. I do remember being excited at the sight of the façade; simple, a little worn, with a worn noren hanging before the narrow entrance. The interior was equally narrow and limited to a little counter before the kitchen and a small, raised washitsu in which three low tables were arranged. A little shelf was stocked with bottles of shochu, and the master, along with his youthful serving girl, kept up a friendly welcome throughout the evening. The atmosphere was cosy and the décor, being a little sparse, suggested either no frills dining or quietly self-assured perfection. Neither were true. The food was very, very, good, although not earth – or wallet – shatteringly so.

My dining partners and I indulged heavily in beer. Once we’d drunk the house dry of the bottled variety we then made short work of the draught and, somewhat shocked, resorted to shochu, it being all that was left. On this front, the master either has limited storage, supply issues or a lot of thirsty customers. Judge for yourself. 

The menu, including the blackboard describing various recommendations of the day, offered a variety of chicken-based delights. Prices were good, not cheap, but not extortionate either. Some regular dishes were soon located, along with some more interesting ones. Bearing in mind that this visit was some time ago, you’ll have to refer to the photographs and excuse my (actually perhaps as always) limited description of the food. But, please believe me, it was immensely enjoyable. Well prepared, delicious and simple. The chicken did the talking here. 

There was a dish of lean, lightly seared momo, resting on the ubiquitous shaved daikon and showered with a ponzu dressing. The flesh itself, hugely flavoursome, was only barely cooked, almost sashimi. Then there was a salad, topped with dark, grilled meat of a more robust nature. This was, again, excellent, but if only there’d been more of it. The steaming, bubbling shallow pan was probably the chicken parts best not asked about. I seem to remember wolfing it down just the same. Either there beer had taken its toll by then, or it was good, too.

The chicken sashimi was great! Remember this just fine. What’s to say? Raw chicken, tender and tasty, and even better with the salt. The grilled thighs went down well too. Juicy, crisp skin and a nice smoky flavour. The tsukune were pretty good, although perhaps not textured enough. I don’t enjoy any gristle, but these were perhaps a little too smooth. Finally, the minced ball of raw chicken meat served on nori. Fantastic! But, you guessed it, not enough.

Great little place (thanks for the intro’ Tatsu) with plenty of character and an interesting menu. Worth subsequent visits, but probably not going to be a regular haunt.

Tel: 03-5721-3037

Nakamenoteppen, Nakameguro なかめのてっぺん、中目黒

Most izakaya fanciers are asked, even by close friends, what the attraction is. What’s so interesting? Why the need to pontificate to all and sundry? Aren’t they pretty much the same wherever you go?

There’s no easy answer. Or, more to the point, there are several equally valid reasons why some of us think izakaya are such a worthy addition to not only Japan’s but also the culture of humanity as a whole. The food and drink, of course. The atmosphere – a combination of the décor, staff, chef/master’s attention to detail, and also the customers. The creativity and variation that set the better examples apart.

There’s more. Something about the thrill of the chase. Tokyo is home to myriad izakaya, of varying quality and styles, so discovering those that standout or are in someway memorable, loveable, or if you are lucky a bit of both, is all part of the fun. Then to top it all off, after completing this noble quest, you get to stuff yourself with food and indulge your liquid fixation in the name of a higher calling.

Furthermore, and perhaps just as importantly, there are your fellow izakaya hounds. Sure, there’s common ground, a shared interest, but each has their own take on the subject and different tastes. Nothing beats a night’s dining with those gentle souls who appreciate the importance of back streets, nooks and crannies, and the promise of shabby facades and faded noren. Some, unfortunately, jealously guard their discoveries. Others, thankfully, can’t wait to spread the good word.

And so it was that Poshand pointed me in the direction of Nakamenoteppen, a delightfully irresistible izakaya about a minute or so from Nakameguro station. It’s not ground breaking, nor “high end,” izakaya dining, but there’s something charming about the place. Perhaps the master himself, straight talking and inquiring; “It’s your first time here, right?” “How did you find my place?” “A friend? Japanese or gaijin?” “What did they say about my cooking?” “Really, that’s good. I suggest the hotate in butter; enjoy your meal.”

Could be the décor too. Silly, low threshold – you have to more or less crawl through the entrance – simple wooden counter before an open kitchen dominated by a smoking robata grill, or the somewhat strange bar to the rear of the dining area, before which is set a great board, as if some Viking’s feast were to be held. The place is suitably cluttered with kitchen utensils, ornaments, drums, posters, bottles of shochu and sake and piles of organic vegetables and himono. It’s warm; thanks to the charcoal grill, and well lit. No shadows here, it’s all about light and seeing what’s around and before you.

In much the same way as at Honoka, you arrive to find a personalised reservation slip awaiting you. It thanks you for turning up, recommends the dish of the day, and in this case gets your name wrong. I was Ferry-san for the evening. Interestingly, you also get your own (kind of) waiter/waitress for the evening. Once seated, they produce the customary hot towels, and then inform you that they’ll be personally taking care of your needs for the duration of your stay. A nice touch. It breaks down however, as I found that when my glass was drained or plate was empty I just hollered and the first member of the waiting staff that happened to be within earshot. Still, good, fun, friendly service (when you leave they escort you out and proffer their meishi) for the most part, although towards the end of the evening the drinks took a little too long to arrive.

As for the meal itself, pretty darn good. They have a respectable, if limited, selection of sake available, a greater variety of shochu and as much beer as one could need. I stuck with latter. I always like to kick off with some pickles, and the kyo-yasai tsukemono were enjoyable. If I had to find fault, I’d say I like my tsukemono a little chunkier. The grilled squid with mayonnaise was absolutely delicious. Not at all over-cooked or rubbery, the smoky flavour from the grill was wonderful.

As was the katsuo-tataki. Very, very lightly seared, the flesh was succulent and firm, with no nasty excess moisture. Fresh and not too fishy tasting, good stuff. Fish is the main theme here, although veggies, meats and Okinawan dishes also make an appearance, and as such I couldn’t resist the salt grilled sanma, a fish about which Uncle N has recently explained much. The crispy, salted skin was very good, and the slightly oily flesh fantastic. They are in season now, and it shows. Will be making the most of them.

I finished the meal with some fried rice, almost like an ishiyaki-bibimba really, containing some vegetables, gherkins (I think) and some fish of some description. Wholesome, filling; a good end to an enjoyable evening. My dining partner closed with a kind of chocolate brownie, which was wrapped in foil and heated on the grill so that that chocolate in the centre became soft and gooey. Nice. Shame about the canned cream though.

This was great. I’d recommend Nakamenoteppen any time. Food, drinks, atmosphere, service, location; all good. Also a lot of fun, just as eating out should be.

Tel: 03-5724-4439

Blacows, Ebisu ブラッカウズ、恵比寿

Despite the boom in Tokyo burger joints over the last year or so I tend not to pay enough attention to them, probably due to the fact that they tend not to provide a suitably drawn-out dining/drinking experience, although my attempt to spend a full evening at Giggle proved enjoyable. Still, burger restaurants, no matter how fresh, healthy and handmade the cuisine they offer may be, suggest lunch or a quick bite rather than a leisurely evening meal.

I recall a flier for Blacows landing in the office post box a year or so ago. At the time it sounded interesting but somehow ended up being ignored, despite my passing it daily on my stroll through Daikanyama. But then, I suppose a couple of months ago, I started to notice how busy it was – any day of the week – and the frequent queues outside the place. Queues generally indicate decent food, or recent television endorsement by mindless “talent” well trained in the art of rolling their eyes while declaring something “oishii.” Either way, I decided to follow the herd.

Typically, on the evening my dining partner and I visited, Blacows was pretty much dead. A couple of sparkly forty-somethings with perfect nails and expensive looking skin, and a couple of neatly dressed, polite and ultimately soulless waiters were our only company. The interior was appealing, in that it felt a little more “restaurant” than burger bar/café – bright, clean, modern and kind of minimalistic. There was a counter overlooking the kitchen, but unfortunately we weren’t afforded the opportunity to enjoy that particular view.

The menu sounds appetizing enough. A selection of salads, Hokkaido fries (more like wedges really), a selection of beers and a respectable line-up of burgers. The burgers take centre stage, being lovingly prepared from 100 percent wagyu (Japanese Black Angus cows) so as to provide a delicious, wholesome meaty flavour and texture. You pay a little more for the privilege than you might elsewhere, but overall the pate is rather good. Most of the burgers you would expect to find are available, cheese, egg, bacon, avocado etc., along with more exciting fillings such as jalapeno and Italian mozzarella with prosciutto. The choice is not in the same league as the plethora of highly creative, often messy, towering burgers that Giggle provides, but it outdoes that which was on offer at Frisco Charcoal Grill.

Service is prompt, polite and informative. Prices reasonable, around a ¥1,000 for lunch and a little over for a burger in the evening. By time you add salad, Hokkaido fries and some beers (small and at Daikanyama prices) the final bill can add up.

We went for a salad, which was fairly pedestrian. The Hokkaido fries were actually rather good, a decent pile, and a higher quality of potato than one usually endures, nice and crisp on the outside and served with an assortment of three condiments for dipping. I went for the bacon and egg burger, which was delicious, neat and easy to eat without getting too messy. There’s even brown paper sheets in supply at each table, should you like to wrap your burger in that manner. My dining partner’s avocado burger was good too, although not a patch on Giggle’s take on the genre. The meat in both was excellent, and the bread rolls fresh and glistening, apparently supplied by Maison Keyser bakery. Each plate came with a gherkin, and a sprinkling of fries.

So, a decent enough burger restaurant, that provides quality rather than creativity. I’m still sticking with Giggle as my favourite, mainly for the choice and reckless abandon with which they pile up a great and gooey burger. Still, Blacows is well worth a visit, especially if you prefer not to get your hands messy and happen to be in the Ebisu/Daikanyama area. You’ll probably not prolong your stay though.

Tel: 03-3477-2941